Motorcycle scissors jack with adjustable cuffs

[Thumper]

I paid $68 for this in 2022. Fantastic tool
It's $36 plus $17 shipping today ($15 less!).
Find it by description on ebay:

ATV Lift Crank Operated Bike 1100 Lb Motorcycle Lift Scissor Jack Stand

[JerryHawk250]

I just picked up one myself. This is 1200lb rated. Heavy little sucker at 30lbs. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CPS4MVX4...t_details&th=1

[Zapkin]

Originally Posted by JerryHawk250

I just picked up one myself. This is 1200lb rated. Heavy little sucker at 30lbs. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CPS4MVX4...t_details&th=1

i got one like yours Jerry, but blue (hehe). I find it very unstable for my bike. For one, I have to add wood to even get the rear off the ground and then I dont trust it for a second. I wish I'd have gotten one like he did, one I could lift using the frame. eh well, live and learn. I could put this one up for sale and get one like his, but I will probably just live with it.

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by Zapkin

i got one like yours Jerry, but blue (hehe). I find it very unstable for my bike. For one, I have to add wood to even get the rear off the ground and then I dont trust it for a second. I wish I'd have gotten one like he did, one I could lift using the frame. eh well, live and learn. I could put this one up for sale and get one like his, but I will probably just live with it.

I got this for my Lycan and Vulcan S. They are much lower than the Hawk and KPX. Works perfect on the Lycan and Vulcan.

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by JerryHawk250

I got this for my Lycan and Vulcan S. They are much lower than the Hawk and KPX. Works perfect on the Lycan and Vulcan.

And if you can find an exposed frame under there, it will lift the ST as well

This scissors jack can get pretty low:

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by Thumper

And if you can find an exposed frame under there, it will lift the ST as well

This scissors jack can get pretty low:

Attachment 31341

No need for the ST, It has a center stand.

[TominMO]

Originally Posted by JerryHawk250

I just picked up one myself. This is 1200lb rated. Heavy little sucker at 30lbs. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CPS4MVX4...t_details&th=1

Mine is similar. Came with a cheap ratchet wrench and socket + the usual long socket and handle thingy.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B8D7B6MM...t_details&th=1

For those of you who haven't thought of it, remember to grease the worm gear.

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by TominMO

Mine is similar. Came with a cheap ratchet wrench and socket + the usual long socket and handle thingy.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B8D7B6MM...t_details&th=1

For those of you who haven't thought of it, remember to grease the worm gear.

That's the same one minus the ratchet. These are made with a heaver gauge steel than the 1100 lb units. Weighs about 3-4 lbs more.

First thing i did was grease it up.

[Aussie_in_MO]

I've been using a Hazard Fraught hydraulic lift for the past 12yrs. It's done double duty as a bike lift or transmission lift depending on what I'm working on.
https://www.harborfreight.com/1500-l...ift-60536.html

[Zapkin]

this is the kind i should have bought! i ended up with one with a flat surface on the top. very very unstable imo.

[J4Fun]

I have the same stand basically as Jerry has and it works well for my two light bikes. Yes there’s that shimming that may be needed but no problem. Even used it once to remove the trans on my mini truck for a throw out bearing change. Had to put it on a dolly for that job. My thoughts…

[Thumper]

My lift has those two adjustable cradles to set under the frame. That makes it a little more stable but NOT completely stable.

But this gave me some ideas:



This is just one approach, and it is restricted to using your lift over the hoops in the floor (or trailer). Here are a few other possibilities...

Lower attachments- put a metal plate or a rectangle of good plywood (less expensive, easier to fabricate) under the entire lift with eye bolts aiming up on all four sides underneath the lift, and use those eye bolts to secure your bike frame down

Lower attachments- alternatively, two long plates with eye bolts could be set under the TOP platform surface of the lift only. This would secure the bike down, but only to the top surface. Maybe not so good since if the scissor jack may not hold the top plate down securely.

"Tie downs"- depending on your frame, you might be able to use turnbuckles like the one shown in the photo above (with appropriate hooks or threaded links like the one in the photo), or even fixed length rods with hooks on each end-one for the eye bolt, and one for your frame, or short custom ratchet straps. Fixed length rods or 1/4" metal plate with hooks could be tightened up by extending the lift upwards. The ratchet straps would have the advantage of being easily adjustable.

Here is another simple idea. Fabricate TWO lengths of heavy duty nylon belting with a hook on each end. Place the two of them under the entire rack and hook the ends onto the frame. Then lift the bike until they get tight. They would have to be the right length, and the same length, but this is a simple way to do this.

Another method could be locking clamps that simply pin the frame to the upper plate of the lift. Two BIG vice grips with plates to protect the frame/lift?

How about drilling two (or four) holes in the top plate of the lift, place a flat metal plate (like 1" wide, 1/4" plate) with two holes in it across the frame and just bolt the plate to the top plate of the lift to clamp the frame onto the lift. This approach could employ holes in various location for different bikes. Custom clamping hardware could be devised (two might be enough) with a hole in each to bolt onto the top plate of the lift.

I can think of lots of ways to do this. The key would be to keep it simple and maybe use existing hardware, maybe even plastic coated hardware (to protect the frame).

Cutout pieces of an old bicycle/motorcycle tire or inner tube could be used to cushion the frame here and there.