Can’t remove front rotor from hub

Applepilgrim1 · 11-02-2021, 09:47 PM

I have been trying to replace the rim on my front wheel for a while now I managed to remove most of the spokes except those that are being blocked by the rotor. I’ve tried everything to get the 8.8 size lugs that hold the rotor to the hub off. I’ve even tried a propane torch which I’m pretty sure cooked my bearings. Please if anybody has any advice on how to get these stupid things off it would be very much appreciated. I’m at the point where I just want to get my bike off the stand and ride.

**JerryHawk250** · 11-03-2021, 07:53 AM

Have your tried using a small impact driver?

Working_ZS · 11-03-2021, 06:39 PM

You need more heat. Try and find an auto repair shop with an acetylene cutting/welding rig and have them heat the bolts and hub bosses that they thread into, while simultaneously applying torque with a ratchet, hex key, or an impact driver. A small #1 or #0 gas welding tip works well here, allowing you to apply the heat with pin point precision just on the bolt head. Most rotor bolts on Chinese bikes seem to be applied with LocTite Red, or China's version of it, and that stuff will not let go without serious and continuous application of heat. You literally need to be heating the bolt as you are loosening it to get it out. If you back off on the heat before you have the bolt out all the way, the damn thread locker that they use will re-set up on you. I went through this on the rear rotor bolts on my RX3 and it was a royal pain in the rear. I could not believe how tenacious that thread locker was; first time I've ever had to heat bolts continuously to get them out.

After you get the bolts out, I recommend taking a M8 X 1.25 thread tap and cleaning out all of the existing thread lock, then replace it with something a little more forgiving, such as LocTite 242 or 243.

Applepilgrim1 · 11-03-2021, 08:09 PM

I did try a small impact without avail as Working ZS was saying it needs much more heat than I can give it. I broke down and ordered another hub assembly for 30 bucks the next rotor I put on will use hex bolts. I understand you dont want things moving but damn its like the bolts are spot welded down.

11-03-2021, 07:53 AM	#2
JerryHawk250 Moderator Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Houma, La. Posts: 11,574	Have your tried using a small impact driver? __________________ 2023 Lifan Lycan 250 Chopper 2023 Venom Evader 2022 Lifan KPX250 2020 Kawasaki Vulcan S 2004 Honda ST 1300 2016 Black Hawk 250 (sold) Keihin PE30 carb,125 main,38 slow.Pod filter,ported & decked head 10:1 CR,Direct Ignition Coil,15/40Sprockets,NGK DPR8EIX-9,De-Cat,Dual Oil Cooler,Digital Cluster 2016 Cazador180 XL 2014 Coolster150 JerryHawk250.com My YouTube Channel
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11-02-2021, 09:47 PM	#1
Applepilgrim1 Join Date: Dec 2020 Location: Houston Posts: 16	Can’t remove front rotor from hub I have been trying to replace the rim on my front wheel for a while now I managed to remove most of the spokes except those that are being blocked by the rotor. I’ve tried everything to get the 8.8 size lugs that hold the rotor to the hub off. I’ve even tried a propane torch which I’m pretty sure cooked my bearings. Please if anybody has any advice on how to get these stupid things off it would be very much appreciated. I’m at the point where I just want to get my bike off the stand and ride.
	0

11-03-2021, 06:39 PM	#3
Working_ZS Join Date: Aug 2016 Posts: 365	You need more heat. Try and find an auto repair shop with an acetylene cutting/welding rig and have them heat the bolts and hub bosses that they thread into, while simultaneously applying torque with a ratchet, hex key, or an impact driver. A small #1 or #0 gas welding tip works well here, allowing you to apply the heat with pin point precision just on the bolt head. Most rotor bolts on Chinese bikes seem to be applied with LocTite Red, or China's version of it, and that stuff will not let go without serious and continuous application of heat. You literally need to be heating the bolt as you are loosening it to get it out. If you back off on the heat before you have the bolt out all the way, the damn thread locker that they use will re-set up on you. I went through this on the rear rotor bolts on my RX3 and it was a royal pain in the rear. I could not believe how tenacious that thread locker was; first time I've ever had to heat bolts continuously to get them out. After you get the bolts out, I recommend taking a M8 X 1.25 thread tap and cleaning out all of the existing thread lock, then replace it with something a little more forgiving, such as LocTite 242 or 243.
	1

11-03-2021, 08:09 PM	#4
Applepilgrim1 Join Date: Dec 2020 Location: Houston Posts: 16	I did try a small impact without avail as Working ZS was saying it needs much more heat than I can give it. I broke down and ordered another hub assembly for 30 bucks the next rotor I put on will use hex bolts. I understand you dont want things moving but damn its like the bolts are spot welded down.
	0