Qlink XP200 surplus electricity

trixter · 05-13-2011, 02:21 PM

How much surplus electricity is generated by the stator on a XP200? I ask because I did not hook my bike to the charger the last 2 days while working on it and today after a 1 mile loop the bike died and the instrument panel went dead. Fortunately I was already in my car port.

I have hooked up a garmin zumo 550 gps to the bike in an always on configuration and was wondering if I should change that (it does have a 4 hour internal battery I just wanted to maximize that battery life for "off bike" time).

2LZ · 05-13-2011, 02:25 PM

Most definitly rewire the Garmin to be off if not in use. Just sits and drains your battery while parked. Will definitely shorten battery life also having a constant drain/recharge scenario going on.

trixter · 05-13-2011, 03:20 PM

Well it has to be in the cradle to draw anything and most of the time it is not when I am not on the bike. It was just a convenience factor. I am more concerned that riding the bike with the gps is ultimately drawing more current than the stator generates and on a longer trip I will end up stuck somewhere.

FastDoc · 05-13-2011, 04:06 PM

I can't imagine. I rode my Q all winter with an electric vest and/or gloves which I sure draws dozens of times more current than your GPS. Each Q I have owned needed a new battery.

The problem is likely an old battery. I bet the battery was made in 07 or 08 and sat all this time.

trixter · 05-13-2011, 05:34 PM

Ok fair enough. I think that mine got really warm before delivery which impacts the battery life dramatically. I honestly dont think the gps draws more than the vest since it charges and operates off USB which is 5v@500mA max. The vest and gloves often draw much more.

FastDoc · 05-13-2011, 06:23 PM

I'm sure the vest and gloves draw 20-30 watts each at least. With the new battery Q never had an issue powering them both all winter up here and keeping the battery charged.

trixter · 05-14-2011, 12:13 AM

While connected to the bike the battery would report fully charged (or at least the charger thought so) but I would go to start and the instrument cluster would go dark. I was able to kick start it and it was running really bad, the lights would dim in cadence with the engine sparking (like there just isnt enough current) and I tried to ride it a little and it sputtered and I never got out of the driveway (which is 1/20 or so mile long). As I revved the engine it would almost stall if I did not have the clutch lever depressed. With the lever depressed it was better, although the lights still flickered.

As a test I pulled the battery out of the bike and hooked it to a charger. While out the charger thinks it is full so I am going to reconnect it and see what it says. I almost bought a battery but I dont want to pay a core fee if I dont have to and I also forgot to write down what size the battery is and wally world had enough of a selection that I was certain I was going to get the wrong size and it would either be smaller than I could fit (thus lower amps) or too big.

I have caught up on emails and things that happened while I was away so I will be going out now to test it and will report back assuming the whole thing doesnt blow up on me :P

FastDoc · 05-14-2011, 12:51 AM

A battery can appear charged, ie have the proper voltage but not function well if it can't produce the amperage. I'd jump the battery to a known good battery and see how it runs. If it runs normally that's definitley the issue.

trixter · 05-14-2011, 01:10 AM

Battery test has to wait, just for grins I decided to disconnect and reconnect the charging cable, the charger thought that it was low so I am waiting. I also tilted the battery a bit and noticed a ton of bubbles that were trapped at the bottom, much more than I am used to seeing in this size battery (we use the same type for a quad, mower deck we tow behind the quad, riding mower, and other stuff).

I also found someone describing the same exact problem I am having except with a 2008 model (mine is a 2009 even though I just got it).
http://www.fixya.com/PostAnswer.aspx...1990&ref=unslt

They say they replaced the battery and the problem did not go away. I may end up calling in for service on this one. The bike is 2 weeks old, so I should not be having any problems like this at all.

trixter · 05-14-2011, 01:24 AM

OTOH http://www.chinariders.net/modules.p...wtopic&t=10357 similar problem, new battery resolved it. I do see what appears to be sulfination on one of the plates, there is a white mineral buildup visible through the plastic of the battery. This makes me think there is probably a lot more under there. It is a 2009 and qlink says the battery comes preinstalled and charged - ie they did not pour the electrolytes in the night before and charge it overnight before shipment so they sat for a long time. sigh. I can desulfinate the battery myself and then have a backup or perhaps something to run my ham radios on when going mobile

Its only been 2 weeks so here is the question, more for myself, do I pay the $40 at walmart for a brand new battery or drive to the dealer and spend however much time (I was gonna goto cycle gear anyway which is just down the street) to get a free battery. Fuel is going to cost about $12 since I would have to take the truck. I am half tempted to not get whatever battery he has laying around and get a brand new one that I pour the electrolyte in myself. I will see how I feel tomorrow when my banjo bolt (maybe) arrives and I will be able to ride into populated areas with the bike since I will have a front brake.

Tonight I just have to find the wiring harness diagram so I know where to connect the GPS to for switched power. Too bad they dont have a terminal block to make that easy.

Weldangrind · 05-14-2011, 02:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trixter

I can desulfinate the battery myself...

Please explain. That sounds like useful information.

trixter · 05-14-2011, 02:56 AM

I hooked the GPS into a black wire (marked brown on the wiring diagram on the last page of the user manual). This is the main hot wire that does the instrument cluster light, tail light, etc. There is a connector at the rear of the bike where it is exposed, brown wire goes to the tail light and black feeds it (its the center wire in I think a 3 wire connector block).

This means it is now switched, and I tested and confirmed that.

While working on this I let the battery charge, any time the charger thought it was done I restarted it by disconnecting and reconnecting it. It is one of those 100% automatic motorcycle ones, got it at Kragen/O'reilly for only a few sheckles. It even came with a pigtail which I installed on the first day I got it.

After finishing I decided to test start the bike. It fired up and no dimming or anything else. This means that it is one of two problems. Either there was a loose wire and I knocked it back into place (which means the problem will return), and I was playing with the fuse to see how it is powered, or the battery is b0rked. My money is on the battery itself given that totally out of the bike it was odd in the way the battery charger would think its fully charged when it is not, what appears to be white crystaline buildup on at least one spot on the plates, and other related stuff. I will seek to replace it.

Weld: are schematics and all that enough help? http://www.instructables.com/id/Desu...an-Altoids-Ti/

Google has WAY more results, that was one of the top ones when I searched for it to find you a link.

Weldangrind · 05-14-2011, 11:47 AM

That happens to me every week.

We have gel cell 12V5A batteries that power an overhead lift, and they certainly don't last forever (usually around two years). They're charged with technology that is similar to a battery tender, and they'll often show 12.X volts, despite having no capacity.

I'm surprised that you found a vendor who would accept sheckels. Quite rare these days.

FastDoc · 05-14-2011, 12:26 PM

For only a few sheckles.

Are you a member of the same tribe as me?

Order a new battery for a DR200SE. It will fit. Don't bother with Q giving you one, they did not do it for me and a good battery is pretty cheap and won't leave you stranded.

Weldangrind · 05-14-2011, 12:34 PM

If you go back far enough, we're all members.

05-13-2011, 02:21 PM	#1
trixter Join Date: Apr 2011 Posts: 125	Qlink XP200 surplus electricity How much surplus electricity is generated by the stator on a XP200? I ask because I did not hook my bike to the charger the last 2 days while working on it and today after a 1 mile loop the bike died and the instrument panel went dead. Fortunately I was already in my car port. I have hooked up a garmin zumo 550 gps to the bike in an always on configuration and was wondering if I should change that (it does have a 4 hour internal battery I just wanted to maximize that battery life for "off bike" time).
	0

05-13-2011, 02:25 PM	#2
2LZ Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Volcano, Ca Posts: 7,096	Most definitly rewire the Garmin to be off if not in use. Just sits and drains your battery while parked. Will definitely shorten battery life also having a constant drain/recharge scenario going on. __________________ "Light a fire for a man, and you heat him for a day. Light a man on fire, and you heat him for the rest of his life." 2007 Suzuki DRZ400S (SM convert) 2009 Q Link XP 200 1967 BSA B25 250cc Starfire 2022 Royal Enfield Interceptor 650 2023 Royal Enfield Scram 411 1948 Royal Enfield Model G 350
	0

05-13-2011, 04:06 PM	#4
FastDoc Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Southeastern Washington desert Posts: 14,761	I can't imagine. I rode my Q all winter with an electric vest and/or gloves which I sure draws dozens of times more current than your GPS. Each Q I have owned needed a new battery. The problem is likely an old battery. I bet the battery was made in 07 or 08 and sat all this time. __________________ Happy to serve.
	0

05-13-2011, 06:23 PM	#6
FastDoc Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Southeastern Washington desert Posts: 14,761	I'm sure the vest and gloves draw 20-30 watts each at least. With the new battery Q never had an issue powering them both all winter up here and keeping the battery charged. __________________ Happy to serve.
	0

05-14-2011, 12:51 AM	#8
FastDoc Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Southeastern Washington desert Posts: 14,761	A battery can appear charged, ie have the proper voltage but not function well if it can't produce the amperage. I'd jump the battery to a known good battery and see how it runs. If it runs normally that's definitley the issue. __________________ Happy to serve.
	0

05-13-2011, 03:20 PM	#3
trixter Join Date: Apr 2011 Posts: 125	Well it has to be in the cradle to draw anything and most of the time it is not when I am not on the bike. It was just a convenience factor. I am more concerned that riding the bike with the gps is ultimately drawing more current than the stator generates and on a longer trip I will end up stuck somewhere.
	0

05-13-2011, 05:34 PM	#5
trixter Join Date: Apr 2011 Posts: 125	Ok fair enough. I think that mine got really warm before delivery which impacts the battery life dramatically. I honestly dont think the gps draws more than the vest since it charges and operates off USB which is 5v@500mA max. The vest and gloves often draw much more.
	0

05-14-2011, 12:13 AM	#7
trixter Join Date: Apr 2011 Posts: 125	While connected to the bike the battery would report fully charged (or at least the charger thought so) but I would go to start and the instrument cluster would go dark. I was able to kick start it and it was running really bad, the lights would dim in cadence with the engine sparking (like there just isnt enough current) and I tried to ride it a little and it sputtered and I never got out of the driveway (which is 1/20 or so mile long). As I revved the engine it would almost stall if I did not have the clutch lever depressed. With the lever depressed it was better, although the lights still flickered. As a test I pulled the battery out of the bike and hooked it to a charger. While out the charger thinks it is full so I am going to reconnect it and see what it says. I almost bought a battery but I dont want to pay a core fee if I dont have to and I also forgot to write down what size the battery is and wally world had enough of a selection that I was certain I was going to get the wrong size and it would either be smaller than I could fit (thus lower amps) or too big. I have caught up on emails and things that happened while I was away so I will be going out now to test it and will report back assuming the whole thing doesnt blow up on me :P
	0

05-14-2011, 01:10 AM	#9
trixter Join Date: Apr 2011 Posts: 125	Battery test has to wait, just for grins I decided to disconnect and reconnect the charging cable, the charger thought that it was low so I am waiting. I also tilted the battery a bit and noticed a ton of bubbles that were trapped at the bottom, much more than I am used to seeing in this size battery (we use the same type for a quad, mower deck we tow behind the quad, riding mower, and other stuff). I also found someone describing the same exact problem I am having except with a 2008 model (mine is a 2009 even though I just got it). http://www.fixya.com/PostAnswer.aspx...1990&ref=unslt They say they replaced the battery and the problem did not go away. I may end up calling in for service on this one. The bike is 2 weeks old, so I should not be having any problems like this at all.
	0

05-14-2011, 01:24 AM	#10
trixter Join Date: Apr 2011 Posts: 125	OTOH http://www.chinariders.net/modules.p...wtopic&t=10357 similar problem, new battery resolved it. I do see what appears to be sulfination on one of the plates, there is a white mineral buildup visible through the plastic of the battery. This makes me think there is probably a lot more under there. It is a 2009 and qlink says the battery comes preinstalled and charged - ie they did not pour the electrolytes in the night before and charge it overnight before shipment so they sat for a long time. sigh. I can desulfinate the battery myself and then have a backup or perhaps something to run my ham radios on when going mobile Its only been 2 weeks so here is the question, more for myself, do I pay the $40 at walmart for a brand new battery or drive to the dealer and spend however much time (I was gonna goto cycle gear anyway which is just down the street) to get a free battery. Fuel is going to cost about $12 since I would have to take the truck. I am half tempted to not get whatever battery he has laying around and get a brand new one that I pour the electrolyte in myself. I will see how I feel tomorrow when my banjo bolt (maybe) arrives and I will be able to ride into populated areas with the bike since I will have a front brake. Tonight I just have to find the wiring harness diagram so I know where to connect the GPS to for switched power. Too bad they dont have a terminal block to make that easy.
	0

05-14-2011, 02:56 AM	#12
trixter Join Date: Apr 2011 Posts: 125	I hooked the GPS into a black wire (marked brown on the wiring diagram on the last page of the user manual). This is the main hot wire that does the instrument cluster light, tail light, etc. There is a connector at the rear of the bike where it is exposed, brown wire goes to the tail light and black feeds it (its the center wire in I think a 3 wire connector block). This means it is now switched, and I tested and confirmed that. While working on this I let the battery charge, any time the charger thought it was done I restarted it by disconnecting and reconnecting it. It is one of those 100% automatic motorcycle ones, got it at Kragen/O'reilly for only a few sheckles. It even came with a pigtail which I installed on the first day I got it. After finishing I decided to test start the bike. It fired up and no dimming or anything else. This means that it is one of two problems. Either there was a loose wire and I knocked it back into place (which means the problem will return), and I was playing with the fuse to see how it is powered, or the battery is b0rked. My money is on the battery itself given that totally out of the bike it was odd in the way the battery charger would think its fully charged when it is not, what appears to be white crystaline buildup on at least one spot on the plates, and other related stuff. I will seek to replace it. Weld: are schematics and all that enough help? http://www.instructables.com/id/Desu...an-Altoids-Ti/ Google has WAY more results, that was one of the top ones when I searched for it to find you a link.
	0

05-14-2011, 11:47 AM	#13
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	That happens to me every week. We have gel cell 12V5A batteries that power an overhead lift, and they certainly don't last forever (usually around two years). They're charged with technology that is similar to a battery tender, and they'll often show 12.X volts, despite having no capacity. I'm surprised that you found a vendor who would accept sheckels. Quite rare these days. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

05-14-2011, 12:26 PM	#14
FastDoc Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Southeastern Washington desert Posts: 14,761	For only a few sheckles. Are you a member of the same tribe as me? Order a new battery for a DR200SE. It will fit. Don't bother with Q giving you one, they did not do it for me and a good battery is pretty cheap and won't leave you stranded. __________________ Happy to serve.
	0

05-14-2011, 12:34 PM	#15
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	If you go back far enough, we're all members. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0