2021 TBR7 Clutch Adjustment

[Nospark]

Looking for some advice on adjusting the clutch on new bike during assembly.
I believe I understand the concept but things are not behaving like I would expect. Could simply be the brand new clutch is not behaving as expected.
I have the cable adjustment screwed all the way in at the handle bar lever, should be max length correct? No matter how far out I turn the forward nut at the shift arm the arm never stops traveling rearward. I think I found a point in the clutch arm travel when moving it forward that I feel resistance, assuming beginning to pull clutch. The problem is, no matter how loose I have the adjustment at the clutch arm, the clutch lever will always move the arm with no free play. I can't get enough cable slack to remove all tension from the clutch lever to the clutch arm. It's almost like the clutch cable is too short but, knowing Tao Motors quality, I'm certain that's impossible.

[Ol,fart]

Why are you sure it's impossible? I've gotten bad parts from almost every auto parts supplier on the planet and done warranty work on vehicles with less than ten miles on them.

[Nospark]

I apologize for my sarcasm. The point being is that even if I remove the cable from the clutch arm. The clutch arm has spring tension moving rearward well past the length the cable can reach. So either the cable is too short or, the clutch arm is under tension because it's tight from assembly and hasn't broke in yet with use. It doesn't seem correct to allow the clutch arm to start off in such a far rearward position. I'm incline to set it deliberately lose and see what happens after a short period of use. I'm thinking better to have lose and difficult to get in/out gears than too tight wearing clucth. Not sure though

[Ol,fart]

I agree with loose better than tight. If it's tight enough to start releasing it will burn up in no time. Was the new clutch an exact match in every dimension? How many miles did the original have? Try disconnecting the cable just to see what the arm alone feels like. I don't have a reference for this but depending on the weather I'll disconnecti mine to compare ( if I get to the shop)

[Ol,fart]

After rereading the original post I noticed the new bike part . Making some of my questions pointless. The leaver may have a return spring in addition to the diaphragm spring in the pressure plate. But cable disconnected you should be able to tell when it hits the big spring. Either way the cable should be able to adjust out to have some slack before applying whatever this thing uses for a throwout bearing. I think it would be something along the lines of a Volkswagen Jetta/Rabbit setup although I have never done a motorcycle clutch.

[Ol,fart]

Slorob has a thread, need clutch help .with a tbr7 with 170 miles sounds like yall may have the same problem

[Nospark]

I agree. It feels there is a point with the initial light spring tension on the arm, as it moves forward from a far rearward position, where it engages a larger spring with greater tension, about center position front to rear of the arm travel. I'm hoping it's just the new return spring being strong enough to keep taking up cable slack no matter how much cable I give it. Maybe after running the engine and cycling the gear box a few times the linkage will behave differently?

[franque]

I'm trying to follow the logic of all that you're trying to explain, but I'm simply coming up short.

Basically, the clutch cable is supposed to pull the lever on the motor towards the front. By the way that you're describing it, it sounds like you're wanting it to go farther back? I'm simply confused.

The lever internally has a rather light take-up spring (i.e. You can easily move it by hand) to keep the clutch cable from having too much slack. There is a point where there will be no tension, but you're always adjusting the clutch lever to the point where you're right at the end of the take-up spring's relevance. By design, the lever is supposed to pull past this, to a point where it starts to engage with the 4 or 6 springs in the pressure plate, which disengages the clutch. When they talk about free play in the lever, it's referring to the the play where one can easily move the clutch lever at the handlebar without engaging the clutch

You're effectively shortening the amount of play needed, not lengthening it.

Does this make sense? I only read the first post because I couldn't really make heads or tails of wherever the discussion went afterwards.

[Nospark]

Franque, Thank you for chiming in. We see this the same way. I believe what I did not expect is the very strong take up spring I have. It's difficult to tell where the transition is between the take up spring and where the clutch springs start. I'm hoping this will become more noticeable after a little use. I have not even started the motor for the first time.
My approach for initial clutch adjustment is to have a small amount of arm travel before I feel the heavy clutch spring resistance. Would you agree? Maybe the take up spring will weaken after use making the transition between take up spring and clutch springs more noticeable in the future?

[Megadan]

A bit further than halfway down the adjustment instructions start.
https://cscmotorcycles.com/tt250-clu...on-adjustment/

[Nospark]

Big Thanks to Megadan for helping out again. I've booked marked this page.

[FXDB_Lone_Wolf]

Nospark I’m having the same exact problem. 5,000 miles in and I’m having to replace my clutch. Did you ever figure out what was going on with your situation? I’ve loosened the adjustments at both adjusting points and it’s like my cable is too short.