Hawk 250 brake squeal

Deryl · 02-22-2020, 05:23 PM

Not sure whats the problem. I cleaned the rotors and pads with brake cleaner before first start up. Now I have around 350 miles on original speedo so not sure exactly how much since I know its off. Took them off and cleaned rotor and pads with brake cleaner again but it does not go away. Only seems to be happening on the rear wheel. While riding if I tap the rear break it stops for a few seconds and starts in again. Not sure if it only happens below 30 because roads here are still icy and snowy so only low speed cruising through neighborhoods for me currently. Any thoughts?

Red Hawk · 02-22-2020, 06:46 PM

Do you have enough free play at the adjustment nut? If it’s close it’ll get way tighter as the pad drags it tightens and heats up. I had the same problems till I ran the lock nut all the way loose.

It’d be a good idea while your working on it to dump the cotter pin with a lock nut and bolt. I found mine gone going down “mile hill” the kind that’s has truck run outs. Front brake was so hot.

Megadan · 02-22-2020, 07:40 PM

I second checking the adjustment on the rear brake. You want there to be a little bit of free play in the pedal travel before the master cylinder rod and clevis start to move. That will ensure that there is no pressure being applied to the rear.

Beyond that, make sure the pads are not binding up inside the caliper and dragging, or other such abnormalities.

Deryl · 02-24-2020, 09:44 PM

I adjusted both 1 and 2 and not sure which is the culprit.
Name: hawk.jpg
Views: 446
Size: 19.9 KB

1 isn't all the way out, from what I can tell this just adjusts the height of the brake, I messed with screwing it in and out and didn't see any free play loss or gains from doing it. 2 from what I can tell adjusts free play of the pedal. If 2 is too tight than yes it will push the master cylinder up and apply the brake. There is a gap, is it not enough of a gap? I think you both meant to adjust 1 all the way out.

From what I did adjusting 1 farther in and as far out as I could get it there wasn't any free play in it. As soon as I pushed down on the brake it would engage the rear brake. I must be missing something but not sure what.

02-22-2020, 05:23 PM	#1
Deryl Join Date: Apr 2018 Posts: 68	Hawk 250 brake squeal Not sure whats the problem. I cleaned the rotors and pads with brake cleaner before first start up. Now I have around 350 miles on original speedo so not sure exactly how much since I know its off. Took them off and cleaned rotor and pads with brake cleaner again but it does not go away. Only seems to be happening on the rear wheel. While riding if I tap the rear break it stops for a few seconds and starts in again. Not sure if it only happens below 30 because roads here are still icy and snowy so only low speed cruising through neighborhoods for me currently. Any thoughts?
	0

02-22-2020, 06:46 PM	#2
Red Hawk Join Date: Jul 2018 Location: NEPA Posts: 273	Do you have enough free play at the adjustment nut? If it’s close it’ll get way tighter as the pad drags it tightens and heats up. I had the same problems till I ran the lock nut all the way loose. It’d be a good idea while your working on it to dump the cotter pin with a lock nut and bolt. I found mine gone going down “mile hill” the kind that’s has truck run outs. Front brake was so hot. __________________ 2018 Hawk P&P Decked .040 off the head. 17/43 D.I.D. 428, NGK Iridium plug, DeCat, Wrapped pipe, Custom S.S. Muffler core, Nibbi PE30 115/35, L.E.D. Lights, Digital Cluster, USB port, Cutting Bord skid plate, Oil cooler w/ custom CRF oil filter inline, 5Wt fork oil, Rear Shock, CNC Back Rack, 30mm FAT bars, Bark Busters, ProGrips, Adjustable levers, Shinko 700’s lots of Loctite!
	1

02-22-2020, 07:40 PM	#3
Megadan Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Omaha, NE Posts: 8,034	I second checking the adjustment on the rear brake. You want there to be a little bit of free play in the pedal travel before the master cylinder rod and clevis start to move. That will ensure that there is no pressure being applied to the rear. Beyond that, make sure the pads are not binding up inside the caliper and dragging, or other such abnormalities. __________________ Hawk Information and Resource guide: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=20331 2018 Hawk 250 - Full Mod list here. http://www.chinariders.net/showpost....62&postcount=1 2024 Royal Enfield Shotgun 650 https://chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=34124
	0

02-24-2020, 09:44 PM	#4
Deryl Join Date: Apr 2018 Posts: 68	I adjusted both 1 and 2 and not sure which is the culprit. 1 isn't all the way out, from what I can tell this just adjusts the height of the brake, I messed with screwing it in and out and didn't see any free play loss or gains from doing it. 2 from what I can tell adjusts free play of the pedal. If 2 is too tight than yes it will push the master cylinder up and apply the brake. There is a gap, is it not enough of a gap? I think you both meant to adjust 1 all the way out. From what I did adjusting 1 farther in and as far out as I could get it there wasn't any free play in it. As soon as I pushed down on the brake it would engage the rear brake. I must be missing something but not sure what.
	0