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Old Yesterday, 09:39 AM   #1
Dufussman   Dufussman is offline
 
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Oil cooler breaking

What would you do here? Check the pic. The banjo casing is cracking. Inside of it is a rubber hose. So far I’m getting a slow oil drip. Maybe a teaspoon a day or less depending on ride time.

My main worry is it will get worse or completely let go on a long ride or hot day.

Due to the clearance issues I do see how I can run the lines differently and the more I mess with it I’m sure I’ll break what’s left.

Ideas??

*Seller sold out, other sellers not responsive. The other end screws into the coolers filter so sourcing a identical new one doesn’t seem
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Old Yesterday, 09:56 AM   #2
dirtbkr188   dirtbkr188 is online now
 
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You might find the length hose you need right HERE, without the solid end piece. Two new banjo fittings and you'll be back in business.


 
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Old Yesterday, 10:51 AM   #3
Dufussman   Dufussman is offline
 
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Thanks. I have plenty of length in the braided hose. Do you think I can get a male ended banjo fitted into it? Also not 100% sure where to source those banjo fittings.


 
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Old Yesterday, 01:10 PM   #4
TominMO   TominMO is offline
 
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Could it be repaired with JB Weld or some other product?
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Old Yesterday, 02:10 PM   #5
Dufussman   Dufussman is offline
 
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I might be able to. High temp gasket maker/RTV or maybe even solder it?


 
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Old Yesterday, 03:37 PM   #6
red2003   red2003 is offline
 
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I, for sure, wouldn't run it until you get it fixed. I would finish removing the pipe where it's broken, tap the banjo fitting (where the pipe used to go) for a barb fitting (any hardware store has brass barb fittings that are male pipe thread on the other end) and put a short piece of hose in between.
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Old Yesterday, 05:32 PM   #7
XLsior   XLsior is online now
 
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That stress point could only happen if the fitting/banjo bolt was overdone and forced/rotated the fitting to contact the engine case while still being turned.


User error seems to be the issue.


 
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Old Yesterday, 05:53 PM   #8
Thumper   Thumper is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XLsior View Post
That stress point could only happen if the fitting/banjo bolt was overdone and forced/rotated the fitting to contact the engine case while still being turned.


User error seems to be the issue.
Fortunately, the seal isn't compromised, though obviously stressed. As I said, no leak, no issue.
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Old Yesterday, 06:04 PM   #9
red2003   red2003 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thumper View Post
There is no oil coming out of it. It is clearly stressed, but the crankcase is full of oil !!

You can ride it, assuming that you didn't cleanup, wash off all of the leaking oil !!!!


But seriously, there are ready made SS lines with banjo bolts (like the original you installed (or made). A banjo fitting compression tool is NOT cheap! I'd just get a premade line, which are cheap. $12-$20 or order a custom line (still under $40) and ride it until it begins to leak, or doesn't. Then install the replacement.
Did you not read the original post stating that it IS leaking? You can clearly see oil on the frame below the fittings, and see the solder joint is broken. If it breaks completely loose on the road, at best the engine pumps out all the oil and seizes. At worst, it's in a corner and the oil gets under the rear wheel and the guy wrecks and dies. It's very irresponsible to encourage someone to chance that.
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Old Yesterday, 06:39 PM   #10
XLsior   XLsior is online now
 
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Something like this should get you out of trouble. Just need to find the correct banjo bolt diameter and pipe barb measurements.



https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005...68379.html?spm


 
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Old Yesterday, 08:31 PM   #11
jeffrey   jeffrey is offline
 
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Remove the line,clean the oil off of it,bend it back up in place and braze or silver solder it up.


 
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Old Today, 04:10 AM   #12
Thumper   Thumper is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red2003 View Post
Did you not read the original post stating that it IS leaking? You can clearly see oil on the frame below the fittings, and see the solder joint is broken. If it breaks completely loose on the road, at best the engine pumps out all the oil and seizes. At worst, it's in a corner and the oil gets under the rear wheel and the guy wrecks and dies. It's very irresponsible to encourage someone to chance that.
No, did not catch that


It won't really be ridable until fixed. It could be capped off while waiting for the replacement line. M10-1.0 or M10-1.25 bolts ??
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Old Today, 10:03 AM   #13
GypsyR   GypsyR is offline
 
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Two simple solutions come to my mind here. Take it off and reinstall the factory end plug. You DID keep that right? Lots of folks riding around happily with no coolers.
Second would be just to buy a whole new cooler kit. Rob the part you need or just upgrade it all.


 
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Old Today, 10:27 AM   #14
Mudflap   Mudflap is offline
 
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When that type of oil cooler leaks it can suck air and starve the engine of oil.


 
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Old Today, 12:57 PM   #15
Do©Hawk   Do©Hawk is offline
 
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I agree with Gypsy. Put your stock cap/filter back on until you sort out the oil cooler. Then you can ride without concern of accident or failure caused by the leak.

It appears that the top hose was leveraged between the engine case and the lower hose/fitting. The way these bikes vibrate (at least mine) I wouldn't be comfortable having those hoses and fittings crammed tight together like that. The adapter needs rotated counterclockwise to create more space for the hoses and fittings.
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