Tao Tao DB-10 and DB-14 issues

[PleaseW84myRX8]

Just bought these two for my kids and have some oddity questions and some actual maintenance issues.

Issues with the DB-10:
If I sit on it (I'm 165 lbs), the bike won't move and bogs down when I try to ride it. I wanted to teach my son to ride it while I was on the back, but it won't move and when I try to accelerate, it just bogs and shuts off. It seems to know when the compression of the springs occurs and starts to cut fuel or something. Not sure how to address this. Never had this issue on any pit bike before. Once he starts to learn and gets into rough terrain, this can be a major issue.

The automatic transmission. How many gears does it shift through? I tried getting my older son on it, and I listened as he drove in circles and it didn't seem to ever leave first gear, and he was moving slowly (like, I could jog next to him), and the engine was definitely at high rpm. Can I get some help with this?

. It will make a sound like the engine is scratching or rattling. It seems to be constant. You can hear it pretty clearly. I know these engines are cloned from Honda engines, but I've heard no Honda engine sound like either of these two TaoTao's and am concerned.

Issues with the DB-14:
The bolt that holds the fork onto the chassis of the bike seems to be stripped. Or I don't know how to tighten it. Both bikes had an issue where the front wheel would constantly loosen and point a different direction from the handlebar position. But the 10 was able to be tightened for now. I couldn't tighten the 14. It just kept spinning and quite loosely, I'll add. The bolt size is different, so is it supposed to be tightened from the bottom? Before I start taking it a part, I'd like to get some info on that. I had my torque wrench set to 15 pounds so it shouldn't have been too much for it to have stripped unless these bolts really are just THAT cheap. If I need to replace it, can you recommend something that is stronger so this won't happen again?

and listen to the sound. It sounds as though there is metal scraping occurring at moderate to high rpm. It is kind of hard to hear with the cell phone camera, but in person it is very loud and noticeable. It comes in quite clearly at :06 - :10, though. I have had many bikes in my time, but never heard a bike sound like this.

Lastly, both bikes have two issues. The first is that fuel seems to leak from the carburetor. How do I fix this? I've tightened the clamp and the hose, but still they leak. Second, both engines will only run if the choke is in this position (see attached image). If I move it up, whether the engines are hot or cold, the engine will immediately start to choke and die, as though fuel or air was not getting into the system. You can also see the leaking at the bottom there. Just want to confirm, this IS the choke, correct? Is this the correct position then and I should just ignore the "up" position?

Other than this, we had fun on our first ride. But would like to have a longer ride once these issues are addressed.

(also thanks for reading my lengthy post)

[FLASHLIGHTBOY]

if it will not run when you have the choke off... then the common problem is the gaskets and o rings after the carb... with the choke on and the motor running... spray some ether or carb cleaner around the mounting gaskets behind the carb and where the manifold mounts to the engine... if it flutters and runs different( trying to stall) then this is where your carb is letting air into the motor.. tighten it up .. or change the oring ( as it is leaking air or maybe flatten out) and then it will be fixed... as to the noise problem... you have to see if there is any scratch marks on anything... or gear or chain noise... alot of times the chain is not ligned up right.. or too tight... causing this problem.. can you put it on a stand and run it to cause this noise???? as for parts... there are alot of places to by parts.. on ebay.. or check on here for the name of some places... like partskits or some thing like that name... google tao tao parts.... killermotorsports,,... familygocarts…. lots of places... I do not know of a upgrade parts..

[FLASHLIGHTBOY]

here is a pic of where to check for vacumm leak on the carb and intake pipe..... use whatever you what to check for leaks,,... some guys get exciting when I say to use starting fluid.. it will blow up... it will run away.... no it will not... use carb cleaner or other stuff..

[PleaseW84myRX8]

DB-10:
I've gone ahead and checked, and it indeed looked like it was leaking. around the bottom and top of the header. I cleaned it and then put on some liquid gasket and let it sit for a few hours. Went out riding, same noise. Same problem with the choke needing to be in the position in the picture.

I adjusted the filter a bit, as it seemed to be sitting on top of a nub, but I didn't notice a difference.

Steering bars keeps offsetting from the wheel after tightening and I'm afraid to tighten any further for the same reason as the DB-14. Would appreciate a good strong upgraded part recommendation. .

DB-14
I haven't replaced that steering part, yet, but I did the same work to the header as the DB-10. Still, I hear that scratching sound and choke problem.

As for the steering part, I cant find the exact part. Each one I find says it is a 17 or 14 mm bolt, but the one on the bike right now is 30 mm. Can anyone recommend an upgraded, stronger metal part? I'll call the shop on Monday, but their online resources all pointed to a different size other than what is on the bike. Wouldn't mind paying extra for a good strong replacement for both bikes.

[PleaseW84myRX8]

Can someone identify the part number for this center bolt? Preferably looking for a stronger one.

[PleaseW84myRX8]

I'm bumping this again and confirming that a new carburetor fixed both bikes relating to the air leaking, the choke problem, and the noise.

I still need help fixing the twisting in the steering wheel. My kids have not been able to ride since I bought these and ran them one time. The wheels are just too loose. I would appreciate a solution to the wheel problem.

[PhildoScaggins]

Maybe see if you can remove the bolt altogether. Bring to a hardware store and see if they have anything similar. You might have to measure it with a digital caliper if you're trying to buy it online.

[Bounds07]

I'm having a similar issue with my son's brand new db14 as well. I did all the normal stuff when first assembling the bike (oil, nkg plug, locktited every bolt, adjusted chain and rear wheel along with top top bottom once over). It's sitting at approx 4 hours drive time with 2 oil changes along with a new stator because the factory one lasted about 15 minutes of easy driving in the front yard. The worst thing that's driving me nuts is an insane clacking sound when at idle, it clears up and drives fine as you give it a smidge of throttle. The sound appears to be coming from the foot brake side of the crank case but in not certain and haven't torn into it to check. It's made the sounds since the first crank which lead me to believe it's a detonation issue and running rich but when I went to change the jet there's what looks like approx a 72-74 in it with 89 stamped on the top. No idea what's going on but I'm about ready to let him drive it till it blows up and pick him up a Honda. I just feel that a bike with less than 10 hours shouldn't have had this many issues.

[Bounds07]

Originally Posted by PhildoScaggins

Maybe see if you can remove the bolt altogether. Bring to a hardware store and see if they have anything similar. You might have to measure it with a digital caliper if you're trying to buy it online.

What carb did you put on?

[Sko_moto]

Do you happen to have a link or part number for the new carb you put on the db14? What size is the stock carb and what would be considered and upgrade? Thanks in advance.

[dglady30]

Does anyone know the part name or number for the fork bolt on the DB 10? Mine is missing completely.