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Old 12-04-2017, 01:50 PM   #1
SlendyMayne   SlendyMayne is offline
 
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Bike dies when coasting

Hey everyone. So I've recently been running into a problem with my zongshen gs250. Whenever I'm riding and I pull into a stop, when I start coasting my bike dies. I can start it back up go continue riding but the same issue happens when I coast. Anyone know a possible reason behind it or a solution maybe?


 
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Old 12-04-2017, 05:27 PM   #2
JerryHawk250   JerryHawk250 is offline
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Could be a couple of things. Idle mixture may need adjusting. Idle set to low.
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Old 12-04-2017, 06:04 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by JerryHawk250 View Post
Could be a couple of things. Idle mixture may need adjusting. Idle set to low.
Speaking of the fuel screw, even when I have the screw sitting, the engine still runs.


 
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Old 12-04-2017, 08:23 PM   #4
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Idle is too low but also sounds like you have other carb issues. Likely an air leak into the system somewhere.



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Old 12-04-2017, 10:46 PM   #5
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Partially clogged low-speed jet or tight valve lash. I have experienced this, as you describe it, from both.


 
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Old 12-05-2017, 04:31 PM   #6
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Partially clogged low-speed jet or tight valve lash. I have experienced this, as you describe it, from both.
I figured this I cleaned out the carb and the pilot jet was slightly clogged. Got it running again but the same problem occurred. I may need to get a bigger jet.


 
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Old 12-05-2017, 04:31 PM   #7
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Idle is too low but also sounds like you have other carb issues. Likely an air leak into the system somewhere.



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Around how many rpms should I set it to? I had it idling it at 2k rpms maybe go a little higher?


 
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Old 12-05-2017, 04:33 PM   #8
JerryHawk250   JerryHawk250 is offline
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Quote:
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Around how many rpms should I set it to? I had it idling it at 2k rpms maybe go a little higher?
about 1500-1600 rpms. May just need to adjust the idle mixture or check valve lash. Valves set to tight can cause this symptom.
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Old 12-05-2017, 05:36 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by JerryHawk250 View Post
about 1500-1600 rpms. May just need to adjust the idle mixture or check valve lash. Valves set to tight can cause this symptom.
Still new to the Moto world. Where's the valve lash?


 
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Old 12-05-2017, 06:54 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlendyMayne View Post
...may need to get a bigger jet.
Those Teikei pilot jet is little bit tricky to buy locally but online shop had everything

Quote:
Originally Posted by SlendyMayne View Post
Still new to the Moto world. Where's the valve lash?
d/l TW200 manual http://www.lisaeaise.com/tw.pdf or youtube it
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Old 12-05-2017, 07:33 PM   #11
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1100 to 1200 is the actual idle speed. New riders may find it easier to start from a stop with the idle at 1500-1600.


 
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Old 12-05-2017, 08:06 PM   #12
SlendyMayne   SlendyMayne is offline
 
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Quote:
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Those Teikei pilot jet is little bit tricky to buy locally but online shop had everything


d/l TW200 manual http://www.lisaeaise.com/tw.pdf or youtube it
Woah is this the bike that zongshen engine copied? It uses the same kind of carburetor.


 
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Old 12-06-2017, 07:13 AM   #13
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Quote:
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Still new to the Moto world. Where's the valve lash?
Valve lash is a term to describe the gap between the rocker arm and the valve. This gap exists to account for thermal expansion of the various metal parts of the valve train, and allow the valve the ability to fully seat and seal the combustion chamber. Otherwise, it causes a number of running and rideability issues. So there is no "lash" that can be pointed to. Lash is something you set.

Given that you have a SOHC engine, you should have two caps on the valve cover, one front and one rear with big hex heads on them. These caps come off to give you access to the lash adjusters.

In order to properly set valve lash on an engine there are a couple of criteria that must be met.
1. The engine should be stone cold - preferably sat overnight or many hours.
2. The engine must be set to Top Dead Center on the compression stroke. This means that both valves are in a "loose" condition that will allow you to make proper adjustments. If you are not at TDC on the compression stroke, then you are effectively wasting time.
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Old 12-06-2017, 07:49 AM   #14
JerryHawk250   JerryHawk250 is offline
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I think Megadan and humanbeing got you covered on this one.
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2023 Lifan Lycan 250 Chopper
2023 Venom Evader
2022 Lifan KPX250
2020 Kawasaki Vulcan S (Sold)
2004 Honda ST 1300
2016 Black Hawk 250 (sold)
Keihin PE30 carb,125 main,38 slow.Pod filter,ported & decked head 10:1 CR,Direct Ignition Coil,15/40Sprockets,NGK DPR8EIX-9,De-Cat,Dual Oil Cooler,Digital Cluster
2016 Cazador180 XL
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My YouTube Channel


 
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Old 12-06-2017, 01:22 PM   #15
SlendyMayne   SlendyMayne is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Megadan View Post
1. The engine should be stone cold - preferably sat overnight or many hours.
2. The engine must be set to Top Dead Center on the compression stroke. This means that both valves are in a "loose" condition that will allow you to make proper adjustments. If you are not at TDC on the compression stroke, then you are effectively wasting time.
Found a YT video to find the TDC. Now I have to wait several hours till I go home and work on my bike. Thanks man! I'll keep you guys updated on the progress of my bike. I was losing hope for a little while until you guys came along. <3 Off topic but have you guys heard of the kymco k-pipe?


 
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