[Ariel Red Hunter]

To get back to a subject that I think I know something about, let's talk about valves. And the importance of checking valve clearances as soon as you get your Hawk, or any other bike that uses the same engine. You have an investment of more than a thousand dollars to protect, and the utter joy of riding a motor cycle that runs a treat. That's worth protecting, too. With the valve cover off, it is easy to find top dead center on the compression/firing strokes. Makes it even easier with the spark plug removed. Now, as the very charming, and beautiful Michelle Pfiefer said to Sean Connery in the movie, "Russia House", 'Every Hedgehog Knows' that an engine has to have compression in order to run, and do work. In order to have compression, both valves have to be closed. Ah, but here is the fly in the ointment. These engines come from the factory with the valves set so tightly that the valves usually leak, so reducing compression. But, to get back to the procedure. With the plug out, I prefer putting the bike in high gear, and getting the rear wheel off of the ground with either blocks of wood under the rear of the engine, or the centerstand. That way I can rock the engine back and forth until I am sure I'm on top dead center. How do I make sure it is at top dead center? I stick some thing in the plug hole that will touch the piston. I used to use a sliver of wood split off of the edge of a wood shingle. When those got hard to find, I used a chopstick that I purloined after eating in a Chinese resteraunt. You could use a drinking straw, but those are now made of plastic, so I prefer a chopstick. If you break a small piece off in the cylinder, it is not likely to be a serious problem. Wood burns, either in the cylinder, or in the cat converter. Plastic leaves a gooey sticky residue when it burns, so I don't use it. So rotate the engine until both valves are closed. You can tell by the valve springs being at maximum length. That's why you are rolling the engine over with the rear wheel, so you can see the valve action. When you have this fimly in your mind, and both valves closed, introduce the chopstick theough the spark-plug hole until it touches the piston. I usually put a mark on the chopstick at the plug hole edge, and very gently, move the rear wheel a little bit and see if the chopstick line has moved. If the line disappeared, you are past top dead center. If it moves up, you are still before TDC. So, gently, move the rear wheel until the stick is as far up as it will go. Most people, me included rock the engine back and forth until we are certain we are at top dead center. Now, with the .003 and the .004 inch feeler guages out, check, with the .003 feeler guage, the intake valve. The intake valve is at the carburetor side of the head. If you have trouble or cannot get the guage in there, the valve is too tight. When you look closely at the rocker arm, you will see a lock nut, and an adjusting nut. Back off the locking nut a turn, then loosen the adjusting nut until the .003 guage goes in, but has no slop. Hold the adjusting nut with one wrench, and tighten the lock nut. Check the clearance again. The adjustment nut wants to creep a little as you tighten the lock nut. It is important to get the adjustment right, just be patient, you'll get it. Then do the exhaust valve with the .004 guage. When you are sure of your valve settings, remove the choptstick from the plug hole, put in the plug, don't forget to put the plug wire back on, put the valve cover back on. Your engine will thank you by idleing better and running better in every way. And you will have a feeling of accomplishment from learning a new skill, courtesy of Ariel Red Hunter's School of Greasy Fingers and Barked Knuckles....ARH