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Successfully shortened the sleeve on a throttle cable using a dremel without nicking the cable! Throttle grip now feels just like it did with a carbie. Turns out I will need to buy the intake manifold rotator/adapter from steady garage. I could use a ~1/4" sheet steel spacer instead, but cutting through that with hand tools... nope.
Terminated all the remaining wires from the engine, and started mounting the fuse box and main power relay. Instead of the ignition switch having all of the current from the battery go through it, I decided I would wire in a main relay and use the ignition switch to toggle the relay on/off. It just seemed like a good thing to do. Plus, the fuse box is literally right below it, so wiring is a bit easier. One bad thing, though. The fuse box and main relay took up all of the half-sandwich-sized-storage underneath the seat. I can still tuck the little tool pouch and tools that came with the bike in-between the frame and the rear plastics.
There is going to be one main fuse between the battery and the main relay, then, from the fuse box, there will be separate fused circuits for lighting/CDI/dashboard/controls, fuel pump and heated o2 sensor on a shared relay circuit, and the injector. I may not be able to use ALL of these relays with the aliexpress ECU, as I haven't yet tested to see if the injector and/or the fuel pump are high-side or low-side switched.
I confirmed that I have the neutral correctly wired when I did a quick electrical test before I started gutting the 125's harness. There is a video on youtube that shows/tells you to connect the green wire with the red stripe coming from the 190 engine to the red wire on the former-gear-position-connector in the top-right corner. This is partially correct. The wire in the top-right corner of the gear connector is red with a green stripe. This is the wire you want to connect the neutral wire to. The wire in the bottom-right corner is red with a white stripe, so be careful to connect to the correct one. I'm sure the guy in the video just didn't see the green stripe on the wire at first, I didn't either.
Part of wiring in the main relay is connecting to the switched +12v (black) wire in the harness. There was a black wire on the security/alarm connector that was switched +12v, but the wire was such a small gauge, I couldn't in good conscience have all of the current going through that wire. I peeled open the harness and searched for the spot closest to the relay that had a solder/crimp joint on the black wire so I could run a thicker, beefier wire directly to that point. As you can see in one of the pictures, the crimp is about as good as you would expect from china. Serviceable, but just barely hanging in there. I flooded the whole crimp and the new bigger wire with solder for a better connection.
The relay for the fuel pump/o2 sensor heater will have to be somewhere besides the under-seat area; I'm using harnesses with pigtails for the relays and they about double the room a relay takes up.
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