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I'll expand on the chain geometry comment: The swingarm rotates through an arc that is centered on the swingarm axle. The chain, on the other hand, rotates on an arc that is centered on the countershaft sprocket. This means that the chain will have slack when the swingarm is above or below a line drawn through the sprocket, the swingarm axle, and the rear wheel axle. The chain will be at its tightest when those same three points are in line. At rest the bike sits with the rear axle below said line so you have slack. As you put weight on the bike the slack lessens. Due to the geometry differences from model to model the recommended slack differs. For many bikes you measure with the bike upright and with about 1 1/2" of slack. It's better to have too much slack than not enough. A tight chain will wear much more quickly and also wear the sprockets more quickly. Too tight and you risk damage to the output shaft. It's a good idea to check the master link (if it is the clip on type) from time to time. That's why I prefer a pressed on master link.
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