Adjusting the valves on these SOHC 249cc 4 stroke engines is really easy. But depending on the make model you have, you may have to take stuff off to get to the head, more work than the adjustment in most cases!
So plan any other things you might want to do with the tank off.
The procedure described here can be applied to practically any OHC four stroke (push rod engines just need wider gaps), but this is written for the 172FMM-3A which is the OEM 5 speed engine on the Spring 2022 Templar X and currently on the Templar M and standard Templar. Same procedure applies to the 6 speed.
Templar X started to ship with a 6 speed counterbalanced version of this engine later last Summer, the ZS172FMM-5 (yeah I know, why -5 if it is a 6 speed!) but the valve adjustment is the same for ALL of the 172FMM engines, including the ones on other brands like Lifan.
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Heads UP! Start this task with almost empty fuel tank.
Not necessarily in exactly this order, here is what to do on the Templar:
-Take the seat off. Find the two 8mm bolts just behind the forward rack mount on the Templars.
-Remove the gas tank. Here comes the fun part. You need to drain the tank
or have golf tees ready to plug the hoses as you remove them. This isn't all that complicated, so I am not going to give step by step instructions. The Golf Tees work!! So now you can remove the tank... Two 6mm allen bolts (one on each end of the tank) AND two more 8mm bolts at the front lower mounts for the air wings that mount to the black metal framed louvres. The gas tank rests forward on those wings nicely, off in the corner somewhere.
Now remove the right side metal wind louvre (two more 8mm bolts). OK, that is the worst of it. Now would be the time to replace the coil or other work under there if you need to.
-Take the spark plug out. This is optional, but it makes it much easier to get the crankshaft positioned TDC, and you can read the plug to see if you are running lean or rich.
-remove the access port on the left case, and put a 14mm socket on the nut that holds the flywheel/harmonic balancer/rotor on the crankshaft. Just in case you did not know, the stator is mounted inside this rotor.
-remove the view port on the top of the left case to see the timing marks for aligning TDC
Here is a photo showing these two ports BIG flathead screwdriver on the 5speed, 10mm allen wrench on the 6speed:
-Counterclockwise rotation on the crank. I like to use a 3/8" breaker bar ($12 at Harbor Fright) to rotate the crank (14mm socket).
This gives you extreme control on the position of the crank. The valve springs are strong, and the crank slips past TDC SOoo easily. Slow counterclockwise movement to keep the cam chain tensioned/valves closed at TDC.
-As you rotate the crank, watch for the T| mark on the rotor. Align the | just right of the T
OK, It is a 4 stroke engine (2 revolutions), so either BOTH valves are closed (compression stroke), or just the intake valve is closed (exhaust stroke). You can rotate the crankshaft and watch the rocker arms as the crank approaches TDC.
Leave it at TDC with BOTH valves closed so you can adjust both of them. A 10mm nut locks the adjustment stem-loosen it. Adjust it with a little screwdriver to 0.002" on both (0.0015" is OK on the intake side).
The tappet stem WILL tighten when you secure it with the 10mm locking nut if you don't hold it at position. Check it after you tension it. Gorilla tightening is NOT advised. Just snug it down and then another 1/8th turn to lock. Seriously, Don't. You don't want to replace these!
Close it all up and you are done.