[colt]

These units are not very reliable at all and all the ones I have seen for sale are just stupid high. I have been doing alarms, remote starts and remote tricks on cars, boats, etc for nearly 30 years.
You can use any remote start/alarm system on a scooter/ATV/etc that you use on any car or truck and for 1/4 of the price of these crappy units and get 2 remotes and more. The only real issue that these have that ends their life quickly will be the weak link with any brand also, mounting. I've installed more than I care to remember on big bikes like HDs and such to also cover the saddle bags, truck, radio,etc from fast hands. When doing a big bike with a trunk or hard saddle bags it's easy, but when faced with a normal bike, atv, etc then preventing water from getting into the main module it takes some work. On something like a ATV, I use either a good quality project box to hold the brain and then use a PG9 Waterproof Connector Gland to run all my wires out of and then I use a bead of sealant on the box cover and then screw it on and after all wiring is done I will tighten the PG9 connector good and then seal it up good with a high quality silicon. When installed like this I have never had any problems with water and dirt getting into the electronics.
Also, you can then use a system with a one way remote or a 2 way and have several times the distance then with these little units. If you take your time and plan it out and don't get in a hurry it will pay off big time.
Now, these seem to really twist a lot of people's minds up in a hurry. The most important thing to remember is that ANY remote start system wires up to the vehicle's electrical and ignition system in PARRALLEL Not Series!!! For example, the wire from the R/S that connects to the starter will simply splice into the wire from the start switch to the wire going to the starter Solenoid. The big difference with all Chinese ATVs/Scooters,etc is that unlike cars and main stream bikes, they DONT send a 12 volt positive from the switch to the solenoid, they switch grounds. When you press the start button on them it makes a ground to the Solenoid relay, this is why they are all mounted in rubber. They get 12 volts + to the relay from the battery cable with a internal connection. So it requires you to use a simple form c relay. This sounds confusing, but after you do a couple and do it, you will understand it very fast if you have any electrical skills. If you are the type that has a hard time figuring out the + and - on the battery or get confused hooking up jumper cables, hen it would not be for you to attempt alone at first for sure.
I will be glad to help anyone out as best I can.

The only other thing I would advise on this is that you get a unit that has the "Virtual Tach" feature. This makes installs go much faster as you will not have to go in search of finding a Tach signal output on the bike. Virtual Tach lets you program start time and it monitors the voltage to determine if the engine started and is running. On some ATVs,bikes and scooters it won't be an issue if they have a tach in the dash. If they don't, then the only place it will be on many is at the CDI and then if it's a DC cdi, you may be out of luck or could damage the CDI if you don't isolate the connection to your R/S.