[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by NoVa Rider

Completed my first RX3 valve adjustment. Here are a few observations.

On removing tank: after removing side plastic, and removing rear bolt, lift tank up at rear and pull backwards to release it from the front rubber mount. At this point there are a number of hoses that need to be disconnected if you want to remove tank entirely. For me it was easier to disconnect the two electrical connections, and set the tank down sideways on an old bath towel where the drivers seat goes. (Be careful to completely cover the battery terminals: shorting the battery with your fuel tank would probably void CSC's warranty.) I used a second rolled bath towel to help prop the tank up so it was not sitting on the fuel connection, and I also put a strap around the rear of the tank down to the foot peg to ensure it wouldn't topple off. Had to be careful, but this avoided pulling lines off of the tank fittings and disconnecting the fuel injection line...

After removing the rear bolt from the fuel tank, I pulled the tank back from the rubber mount. Then I placed the tank on top of the rubber mount so I had enough clearance beneath the tank to unhook the two vent hoses, and the two electrical connections for the fuel pump and the fuel gauge. With all other hoses and wires disconnected, I then disconnected the fuel line from the fuel filter. As the fuel started to leak, I flipped the fuel tank upside down, and the leaking stopped. Then I moved the fuel tank away from the bike, and set it to rest in the upside down position.

Originally Posted by NoVa Rider

...CSC advises taking the radiators off of their mounts to give you more room for access, but I had difficulty finding a wrench that would fit the upper mount bolts: they are easy to see but the upper radiator hoses make it impossible to put a socket on them, and their position under the frame makes it difficult to get a wrench on them. A wrench with a swivel socket end might work but I don't have one. So I ended up leaving the radiators in place, got the cover off the exhaust valves, and squirmed around until I found a position where I could see the valve adjusters and get a hand on them. I eventually got a .006 feeler gauge under both, liked the setting, so I did not have to adjust either exhaust valve. It would have been doable but fiddly. Perhaps I'll time my next valve adjustment to coincide with a coolant change so I can remove top radiator hoses, and get the radiators moved out of the way, just in case the exhaust valves need adjusting...

I used my Tusk Compact T-Handle Wrench Set to remove the radiator bolts. I believe I used the 8mm socket. I am sure one will find it very frustrating, if not impossible, to adjust the exhaust valve lash without getting the radiators out of the way. The T-handle sockets make this job, and many other jobs very easy. I highly recommend this T-handle wrench set.

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...t-handle%20set



I use these T-handle wrenchs all the time while working on my Honda CRF250X. I don't know what I would do without these tools.