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deadwood83 · 05-03-2020, 10:49 AM

The motor is mostly in. The oil cooler I got with my kit is vastly different in mounting style. I keep going back and forth between using it and getting a different one. Photo shamelessly clipped from the swap shop facebook page to show style.
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Views: 1352
Size: 33.0 KB

The tabs are too close for the Kitaco mount to slide between them, and too far to actually use the mount. They are also on the wrong plane of existence to bolt to the mounting tabs for the Kitaco oil cooler spot.

I have an old Yamaha FZ600 oil cooler that has almost perfect spacing, but it requires Yamaha's old style fittings (which I think are DIN2343 18mm, clamped taper collar with backing nut hydraulic fittings) and those are crazy hard to find with a banjo at the other end of the hose other than old Yam hoses, which are all 12mm banjos. Finding an oil cooler in the US which isn't just a Chinese unit sold for 2-3x the price is.... difficult. If the Zhonger case used M12 banjos it would be a lot easier. There are some coolers that should fit, but they just use slip-over barbs on the cooler side, and I do not trust those to hold any sort of pressure whatsoever.

The carb fit was.... tight. and I mean tight. I had to unmount the petcock. My Hellcat has some additional bracketry that is different than what I have seen in others' photos. Oh, and that throttle slide cap is NOT coming off without dismounting the whole carb. The throttle cable was also almost too short. I had to pursue alternate routing, but verified there is still a wee bit of slack from lock to lock.

My belmetric bolts , lock washers, and nylocs worked perfectly. I definitely overtightened them a touch which is OK, they are really one-time-use items at the cost. I went until I felt the tiny mechanical squeak of a friction weld. They will not be coming loose. Red loctite really wouldn't do much due to the heat cycling, and I didn't have any green loctite.

The clutch cable recommended by folks on the swap page is too long by about .5-1.25CM. It is workable, but the handlebar adjustment is at the point where, on my Yamaha, I would say "whoa, this cable is overdue for replacement." It also has a super short throw. Dry runs (just going through the gears while rocking back and forth) indicate the shifting works, but I also have some doubts about real world longevity. While typing this, I just had a thought. There's a very real possibility the arm was installed off-index from factory. I'll have to check that. The shift star fix went in without a fuss. I was even able to perform the mod without removing the clutch basket. That's a win in my books, especially since all my impact tools are away from home.

Stator dropped right in without a fuss. This engine is a Gen3, which means the flywheel can take, at max, an 84 or 85mm diameter stator. Luckily the Hellcat stator is 83mm, but it means that an 8-pole upgrade in future might be a touch tricky. I did find a unit on AliExpress that is 8 pole-5wire, and lists the diameter as 85mm. That might work.

While things were apart, I took the opportunity to replace all the fuel lines with steel and fiber-reinforced 3/16" ethanol-rated Prestone lines; part number #FU0316.

I looked at the possibility of moving the regulator. I did not want to relocate my ignition coil because any spot I looked at had really mediocre grounding. This has proven rather difficult so far. I will need to stare it down some more. As a plus, the reg bracket looks like it is welded all the way across, so it should last ~30-60 days.

I don't like the way the filter kicks out to the side. I would prefer if it has a slight angle and taper to better tuck under the fairing. I'm trying to keep this a little bit low-key and that red filter mushed slightly out of the fairing isn't helping lol. (I ordered a 15* angled dual stage filter while typing this).

The exhaust.... is hopeless. The weld booger was so intense that it has less than 1cm opening at the head. I guess I'm waiting for the exhaust to come in. The cheapo muffler I ordered is just a tightly packed glasspack. I was hoping it was an open can design so I could make/use my own packing. No such luck. I have plans to modify the "DB killer" tip insert so that it will have better flow but still block most direct engine pulses. Basically I'm going to skeletonize the sides but still keep the tube 'cap' in place. This should act sort of like the "lollipop mod" on other four strokes which is meant to reduce exhaust pulse reversion. It won't have adjustability, but it also won't leave a screw and nut sticking out the side of my pipe.

Things left to do:

Exhaust. Going to try and get a genuine Grom gasket for more forgiveness. Also replacing the crappy nuts with actual exhaust flange nuts.
Modify brake lever for ZS190 fit
Tune carb. I am at 4400' elevation, so I have preliminary jetting at 122/40. Reports show success with ~125/38 at sea level, so 122/40 in theory should be really close.
Swingarm bolt / axles
Fork oil
Front end alignment
Wheel bearings
Lube all cables
Put in Cush drive rubbers
Wheel bearings. I might put these off. Prelim inspection of the front wheel during assembly showed a sealed bearing. I don't hear or feel any noise or looseness either. They might last a season. If they start to fail, it's a fast process.

Q9 sent the title on May 1st. 8 days after submitting "product registration" on their site.

05-03-2020, 10:49 AM	#11
deadwood83 Join Date: Apr 2020 Location: SLC, Utah Posts: 83	The motor is mostly in. The oil cooler I got with my kit is vastly different in mounting style. I keep going back and forth between using it and getting a different one. Photo shamelessly clipped from the swap shop facebook page to show style. The tabs are too close for the Kitaco mount to slide between them, and too far to actually use the mount. They are also on the wrong plane of existence to bolt to the mounting tabs for the Kitaco oil cooler spot. I have an old Yamaha FZ600 oil cooler that has almost perfect spacing, but it requires Yamaha's old style fittings (which I think are DIN2343 18mm, clamped taper collar with backing nut hydraulic fittings) and those are crazy hard to find with a banjo at the other end of the hose other than old Yam hoses, which are all 12mm banjos. Finding an oil cooler in the US which isn't just a Chinese unit sold for 2-3x the price is.... difficult. If the Zhonger case used M12 banjos it would be a lot easier. There are some coolers that should fit, but they just use slip-over barbs on the cooler side, and I do not trust those to hold any sort of pressure whatsoever. The carb fit was.... tight. and I mean tight. I had to unmount the petcock. My Hellcat has some additional bracketry that is different than what I have seen in others' photos. Oh, and that throttle slide cap is NOT coming off without dismounting the whole carb. The throttle cable was also almost too short. I had to pursue alternate routing, but verified there is still a wee bit of slack from lock to lock. My belmetric bolts , lock washers, and nylocs worked perfectly. I definitely overtightened them a touch which is OK, they are really one-time-use items at the cost. I went until I felt the tiny mechanical squeak of a friction weld. They will not be coming loose. Red loctite really wouldn't do much due to the heat cycling, and I didn't have any green loctite. The clutch cable recommended by folks on the swap page is too long by about .5-1.25CM. It is workable, but the handlebar adjustment is at the point where, on my Yamaha, I would say "whoa, this cable is overdue for replacement." It also has a super short throw. Dry runs (just going through the gears while rocking back and forth) indicate the shifting works, but I also have some doubts about real world longevity. While typing this, I just had a thought. There's a very real possibility the arm was installed off-index from factory. I'll have to check that. The shift star fix went in without a fuss. I was even able to perform the mod without removing the clutch basket. That's a win in my books, especially since all my impact tools are away from home. Stator dropped right in without a fuss. This engine is a Gen3, which means the flywheel can take, at max, an 84 or 85mm diameter stator. Luckily the Hellcat stator is 83mm, but it means that an 8-pole upgrade in future might be a touch tricky. I did find a unit on AliExpress that is 8 pole-5wire, and lists the diameter as 85mm. That might work. While things were apart, I took the opportunity to replace all the fuel lines with steel and fiber-reinforced 3/16" ethanol-rated Prestone lines; part number #FU0316. I looked at the possibility of moving the regulator. I did not want to relocate my ignition coil because any spot I looked at had really mediocre grounding. This has proven rather difficult so far. I will need to stare it down some more. As a plus, the reg bracket looks like it is welded all the way across, so it should last ~30-60 days. I don't like the way the filter kicks out to the side. I would prefer if it has a slight angle and taper to better tuck under the fairing. I'm trying to keep this a little bit low-key and that red filter mushed slightly out of the fairing isn't helping lol. (I ordered a 15* angled dual stage filter while typing this). The exhaust.... is hopeless. The weld booger was so intense that it has less than 1cm opening at the head. I guess I'm waiting for the exhaust to come in. The cheapo muffler I ordered is just a tightly packed glasspack. I was hoping it was an open can design so I could make/use my own packing. No such luck. I have plans to modify the "DB killer" tip insert so that it will have better flow but still block most direct engine pulses. Basically I'm going to skeletonize the sides but still keep the tube 'cap' in place. This should act sort of like the "lollipop mod" on other four strokes which is meant to reduce exhaust pulse reversion. It won't have adjustability, but it also won't leave a screw and nut sticking out the side of my pipe. Things left to do: Exhaust. Going to try and get a genuine Grom gasket for more forgiveness. Also replacing the crappy nuts with actual exhaust flange nuts. Modify brake lever for ZS190 fit Tune carb. I am at 4400' elevation, so I have preliminary jetting at 122/40. Reports show success with ~125/38 at sea level, so 122/40 in theory should be really close. Swingarm bolt / axles Fork oil Front end alignment Wheel bearings Lube all cables Put in Cush drive rubbers Wheel bearings. I might put these off. Prelim inspection of the front wheel during assembly showed a sealed bearing. I don't hear or feel any noise or looseness either. They might last a season. If they start to fail, it's a fast process. Q9 sent the title on May 1st. 8 days after submitting "product registration" on their site.
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