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sqwert · 10-30-2017, 08:57 PM

The RX# is my first bike with modern machining technology so I did a bunch of research going in and formulated my own break in procedure. The RX3 level of engine technology is a little different from the old stuff. Still, here is some info on a good method for such engines, and something I've never seen posted: Why Break In Is Necessary.

1) Check radiator fluid level before every ride. Engine friction is typically higher on a new engine and reduces significantly during break in. Engine friction causes a lot of heat, so make sure the cooling system is always capable. Modern technologies allow much closer engine tolerances, and when new such tolerances generate a lot of friction, and a lot of heat, more than older bikes.

2) Sustained loads and RPMs initiate a harsh ring groove in the cylinder wall that will limit high RPM power and increase wear rates as engine speeds and loads are increased. Varying oil viscosities, engine speeds, and engine loads during break in provides a transition along the edge of ring wear on the cylinder wall rather than a ragged edge. That is why varying such things is so beneficial.

2) Start with a relatively thick (20W-40 cool weather or 20W-50 hot weather) dino oil for motorcycles/ATVs with wet clutches that share the engine's oil sump. Such oils are formulated with different additives specifically for our application. Start and allow the computer to fast idle while the engine warms and oil circulates throughout the system. It is all automatic with the Delphi injection. Ride a few short loops, allow engine to cool between loops. Never allow a sustained throttle position or engine speed. Choppy hills and lots of curves/corners are good things. Stop signs and lights are also good if you can not get to the fun roads.

These disciplines will allow a wide variety of operating temps and internal engine pressures and that is what you really want; all the varying expansion/contraction of parts from localized temperature changes. Ride gently, the RX3 brakes are exceedingly sensitive to a VERY gentle break in, much more so than the engine. I ruined mine when a texter pulled out in front of me with only 70 miles on the bike. Lots of choppy hills, curves, corners, and stops, ridden gently, will be good for engine and brakes.

EDIT: Another good way to boost engine speeds and encourage good ring groove transition is to downshift, allowing a no load engine speed higher than your shifting engine speed. It boils down to low RPM/open throttle combined with higher RPM/closed throttle. Downshifting also lightens the load on brakes, just be sure to use enough brake for the light to come on or someone will drive over you.

3) After 100-125 miles, drain the oil and check the filters and screens for metallic bits. Everything will probably look perfect, so reinstall the same ol' filters and screens, clean/replace only if necessary, then refill with 10W-40 dino motorcycle/ATV oil. Zongshen seems to do a very clean engine build consistently. I wouldn't worry too much about throttle position or RPM as the advanced machining Zongshen uses on the RX3 engine build, along with the consistent temp provided by liquid cooling, pretty much has most everything a good fit from the start. Just make sure the throttle position and engine speed is constantly changing.

4) About 500 miles, change the oil again using the same dino motorcycle/ATV oil at 10W-40. If the filters are still spotless, probably will be, reuse them. Save money. Have fun on those choppy hills with lots of twisties, they are perfect for break ins. Gradually increase throttle opening and RPM until, approaching 500 miles, about then you should have gradually worked your maxes to full throttle and just touching the red on the tach, but only for instants. Run it up, back it off. Sustained throttle position, loads, or RPMs are bad for break in. Keep in mind the brakes need a lot more break in than the engine. Ride accordingly.

EDIT: Remember engine braking, it provides a good spin to transition the ring groove with minimal thermal spots.

5) At 1000 miles switch to a real motorcycle synthetic. Seems CSC recommends Mobil 1 Racing 4T. I've used Mobil 1 with excellent results for years. The only difference between the 10W-40 Racing 4T and the 20W-50 V-twin is the viscosity. I've used both and run 50000+ miles without rebuilds on older, less precisely machined, small displacement air cooled bikes in extreme conditions (-20*F to 112*F), when I weighed up to 285 pounds, so the engines had to scream. A lot. It is the best stuff available, except maybe some ultra premiums like some Royal Purple and Amsoil that won't be much better but cost a lot more. I have also run every vehicle I've owned on Mobil 1 twice the miles between changes as dino recommendations, never had a problem. Keep in mind a big fat guy, bikes of 100cc to 200 cc displacement, 50000+ miles before doing a top end for oil leaks, burnt valves, or broken parts, but not because of engine wear. CSC is spot on with this recommendation.

I run the Racing 4T in my RX3. Synthetic oil has a broader effective temperature range than dino, especially retaining effectiveness at higher temps that would coke dino, so I don't see ever needing the V-Twin's thicker viscosity in the RX3. I wish Mobil 1 came in a motorcycle blend at 5W-30 for winter use.

6) After 1000 miles and switched to Mobil 1 Racing 4T feel free to run sustained speeds, loads, and throttle settings. Take a trip! You will also notice a bit of power and a wider powerband developing during break in, with the rate of improvement improving gradually the first 1000 miles. Internal engine and trans parts will feel smoother with Mobil 1, and power will not improve as rapidly, but over the first 2000 miles on Mobil 1 there was as much improvement in powerband and power peak as there was with the dino oil the first 1000 miles.

At 6000+ miles, I am still noticing a slight rate of improvement, but the rate is slowed way down from before. I've never had a bike with such positive improvement over so long, and it wasn't bad when new. Well, the top end wasn't bad, but the RPM band of a 24hp 250 is pretty narrow. As break in progressed, not a whole lot of peak output came along, but the power band did get a lot fatter. The result? A much quicker bike, more choices of effective gears at any given time, much easier to ride, and about 6mpg improvement in fuel efficiency over time.

So, that's my opinion on break in, and some of the reasoning behind my process. Different from older bikes because of modern improvements in machining engines. Seems to do a good job.

I'm not even going in to fake "synthetic" diesel truck oils in motorcycles. Things have changed the past few years, and the cost difference does not justify the risk, at least for me. Just keep in mind most major oil suppliers sell 10-12 different diesel truck oils for various engine technology and operating environment combinations, about half of which will damage our engines and clutches.

10-30-2017, 08:57 PM	#7
sqwert Join Date: Jun 2017 Posts: 382	The RX# is my first bike with modern machining technology so I did a bunch of research going in and formulated my own break in procedure. The RX3 level of engine technology is a little different from the old stuff. Still, here is some info on a good method for such engines, and something I've never seen posted: Why Break In Is Necessary. 1) Check radiator fluid level before every ride. Engine friction is typically higher on a new engine and reduces significantly during break in. Engine friction causes a lot of heat, so make sure the cooling system is always capable. Modern technologies allow much closer engine tolerances, and when new such tolerances generate a lot of friction, and a lot of heat, more than older bikes. 2) Sustained loads and RPMs initiate a harsh ring groove in the cylinder wall that will limit high RPM power and increase wear rates as engine speeds and loads are increased. Varying oil viscosities, engine speeds, and engine loads during break in provides a transition along the edge of ring wear on the cylinder wall rather than a ragged edge. That is why varying such things is so beneficial. 2) Start with a relatively thick (20W-40 cool weather or 20W-50 hot weather) dino oil for motorcycles/ATVs with wet clutches that share the engine's oil sump. Such oils are formulated with different additives specifically for our application. Start and allow the computer to fast idle while the engine warms and oil circulates throughout the system. It is all automatic with the Delphi injection. Ride a few short loops, allow engine to cool between loops. Never allow a sustained throttle position or engine speed. Choppy hills and lots of curves/corners are good things. Stop signs and lights are also good if you can not get to the fun roads. These disciplines will allow a wide variety of operating temps and internal engine pressures and that is what you really want; all the varying expansion/contraction of parts from localized temperature changes. Ride gently, the RX3 brakes are exceedingly sensitive to a VERY gentle break in, much more so than the engine. I ruined mine when a texter pulled out in front of me with only 70 miles on the bike. Lots of choppy hills, curves, corners, and stops, ridden gently, will be good for engine and brakes. EDIT: Another good way to boost engine speeds and encourage good ring groove transition is to downshift, allowing a no load engine speed higher than your shifting engine speed. It boils down to low RPM/open throttle combined with higher RPM/closed throttle. Downshifting also lightens the load on brakes, just be sure to use enough brake for the light to come on or someone will drive over you. 3) After 100-125 miles, drain the oil and check the filters and screens for metallic bits. Everything will probably look perfect, so reinstall the same ol' filters and screens, clean/replace only if necessary, then refill with 10W-40 dino motorcycle/ATV oil. Zongshen seems to do a very clean engine build consistently. I wouldn't worry too much about throttle position or RPM as the advanced machining Zongshen uses on the RX3 engine build, along with the consistent temp provided by liquid cooling, pretty much has most everything a good fit from the start. Just make sure the throttle position and engine speed is constantly changing. 4) About 500 miles, change the oil again using the same dino motorcycle/ATV oil at 10W-40. If the filters are still spotless, probably will be, reuse them. Save money. Have fun on those choppy hills with lots of twisties, they are perfect for break ins. Gradually increase throttle opening and RPM until, approaching 500 miles, about then you should have gradually worked your maxes to full throttle and just touching the red on the tach, but only for instants. Run it up, back it off. Sustained throttle position, loads, or RPMs are bad for break in. Keep in mind the brakes need a lot more break in than the engine. Ride accordingly. EDIT: Remember engine braking, it provides a good spin to transition the ring groove with minimal thermal spots. 5) At 1000 miles switch to a real motorcycle synthetic. Seems CSC recommends Mobil 1 Racing 4T. I've used Mobil 1 with excellent results for years. The only difference between the 10W-40 Racing 4T and the 20W-50 V-twin is the viscosity. I've used both and run 50000+ miles without rebuilds on older, less precisely machined, small displacement air cooled bikes in extreme conditions (-20F to 112F), when I weighed up to 285 pounds, so the engines had to scream. A lot. It is the best stuff available, except maybe some ultra premiums like some Royal Purple and Amsoil that won't be much better but cost a lot more. I have also run every vehicle I've owned on Mobil 1 twice the miles between changes as dino recommendations, never had a problem. Keep in mind a big fat guy, bikes of 100cc to 200 cc displacement, 50000+ miles before doing a top end for oil leaks, burnt valves, or broken parts, but not because of engine wear. CSC is spot on with this recommendation. I run the Racing 4T in my RX3. Synthetic oil has a broader effective temperature range than dino, especially retaining effectiveness at higher temps that would coke dino, so I don't see ever needing the V-Twin's thicker viscosity in the RX3. I wish Mobil 1 came in a motorcycle blend at 5W-30 for winter use. 6) After 1000 miles and switched to Mobil 1 Racing 4T feel free to run sustained speeds, loads, and throttle settings. Take a trip! You will also notice a bit of power and a wider powerband developing during break in, with the rate of improvement improving gradually the first 1000 miles. Internal engine and trans parts will feel smoother with Mobil 1, and power will not improve as rapidly, but over the first 2000 miles on Mobil 1 there was as much improvement in powerband and power peak as there was with the dino oil the first 1000 miles. At 6000+ miles, I am still noticing a slight rate of improvement, but the rate is slowed way down from before. I've never had a bike with such positive improvement over so long, and it wasn't bad when new. Well, the top end wasn't bad, but the RPM band of a 24hp 250 is pretty narrow. As break in progressed, not a whole lot of peak output came along, but the power band did get a lot fatter. The result? A much quicker bike, more choices of effective gears at any given time, much easier to ride, and about 6mpg improvement in fuel efficiency over time. So, that's my opinion on break in, and some of the reasoning behind my process. Different from older bikes because of modern improvements in machining engines. Seems to do a good job. I'm not even going in to fake "synthetic" diesel truck oils in motorcycles. Things have changed the past few years, and the cost difference does not justify the risk, at least for me. Just keep in mind most major oil suppliers sell 10-12 different diesel truck oils for various engine technology and operating environment combinations, about half of which will damage our engines and clutches.
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