[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by Angus67

Got another manifold. The studs already look better. And the shoulder on the studs does fit into the carb flange. I got it all back together. The bolts to the engine, and the stud nuts snugged up to what i feel is fine fir aluminum threads. Started right up, second kick cold. I let it warm up, and tried to bring it down to idle. Runs fine, but fast with the choke choking, but when i open the choke, it starts sneezing again like before. I checked for a vacuum leak, but found none.
Now, i have a confession.... when i first took this carb off, the screw on top wasnt screwed on straight. I had to use pliers to thread it straight. Thist could be my vacuum leak, but didnt find one there. Also, is there supposed to be a washer or oring to help seal the top? I noticed a resess it the top were one may have been.
So my thinking is.... at choke, the main comes into play, with out choke the pilot is either plugged, wich it wasnt when i cleaned it out, or the 33 pilot isnt big enuf. I dont see how it wouldn’t be big enuf to run smooth, because I’m running the stock air box, and a un molested muffler.
Main thought..... put in a 38 pilot, or/and the top of the carb is stripped letting in unmetered air.
Thoughts??

In my opinion, a vacuum leak is not coming from the top of the carburetor. There is always a vacuum leak there due to the throttle cable opening in the top of the carb body. The throttle slide controls, but does not eliminate vacuum leaking past it from the top. You can either use grease on the threads, or electricians tape around the top to see if it makes any difference. There is one way to get a vacuum leak the way you describe - either a warn slide, or a warn carb body....ARH