Quote:
Originally Posted by Megadan
Hawk/Brozz etc. use sprocket studs for the cush drive and the sproket is retained by a snap ring. That is why the torque spec is 30-35ft-lbs. I would not use those figures on your bike unless somebody else can confirm they have used them without issue.
The longer bolts is a good idea as the more threads are engaged, the better. Loctite is also a good idea, just make sure to clean the thread surfaces before use. Any oil, grease, or even old loctite will reduce its effectiveness. Brake parts cleaner/carb cleaner isopropyl alcohol, or some other form of degreaser will do fine. Heck, dawn dish soap and a brush works too lol. The lock washer is also not a bad idea, and I have used those with loctite just to be double sure on some fasteners. Maybe it's overkill, but overkill beats death every single time.
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I know an old post but I’m changing the sprockets on my Hawk DLX today. I noticed folks using heat to help loosen the nuts on the rear because of the red locktite. That seems like it could damage the Cush material? I had my wife squeeze the front brake and step on the rear while I used a breaker bar and the 14 mm 6 point socket to break them free. They were on super tight. Just a thought here and Dans post makes good since. I also think that chain tension has lots to do with the sprocket bolt problems. Just posting my thoughts as I’m doing this now…