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At first startup I added fuel and went to start and it stalled out immediately and would not idle. The idle was set at 1000rpm however the specs plate on the side said 1500rpm. I had to adjust the idle screw until it would idle.
Immediately upon putting into 1st gear the bike jumped forward and stalled. Starting again with the clutch in, the bike lurched forward. I had to adjust the clutch cable out and the specs are between 10 and 20mm. Currently about 15mm ish. Feels nice.
Upon turning the wheel to the right, the RPMs shot up to about 4000rpms. I had to adjust the throttle cable to prevent this.
During first ride I noticed the rear brake did not work. I found the adjuster about 2 turns from coming off the shaft. I had to adjust it many turns in (lost count) to get the rear brake to work. Easy to do just turn the adjuster until it works and you like the feel.
Ok so valve clearance issue.
Symptoms -
When it is idling, it lugs a good amount almost like it's trying to stall but catches itself. Eventually it stalls. It is currently idling at 1500 - 1600 rpms but will die within about 20-30seconds.
A few times the bike cut off simply by giving it throttle.
The power delivery is inconsistent, feels like engine is hesitating under acceleration.
Service performed.
After about 30 miles and two oil changes, this morning I checked the valve clearances. They were set at 0 lash. I set them to the factory specs in the manual .03mm and .05mm. *Seems to run a lot better.*
I put another 20 miles on it and the stalling symptoms have subsided.seems like it has a little more giddyup too. No weird noises however, still sounds clicky. (Oh well)
So, there are some tricks to this. First you don't have to take the fuel tank off, just take the bolt out and prop it up with a piece of 2x4. Works great, saves time.
It is super easy to line up the motor with the T mark. Remove the two covers on the left side. One is where the bolt is to turn the motor, the other shows the notch in threads and the magneto with the T mark. TURN THE ENGINE TO YOUR LEFT, VERY I IMPORTANT!!!! DO NOT TURN THE ENGINE BACKWARDS.!!!!!! ok so when the t mark is lined up with the notch in the threads wiggle the rocker arms. If they are tight you are on the exhaust stroke and the motor needs to be rotated 360°. When on the compression stroke the rocker arms will wiggle (even if set at 0 lash, there is still a definitive difference.)
There is no torque spec so just tighten up the nuts. Same with the rocker cover bolts. Tighten them up evenly to hand tight, then a little torque. Not much tho you will strip the cheap aluminum. Just check to make sure no oil leaks out and your fine.
**** should you set the valve clearances on the exhaust stroke and not compression you will know very quickly. That thing will barely run and will sound really bad. *******
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