Now that I had a test rig, time to test the MM-eRCH electric controller and electric motor.
Time to get the mini bike itself onto the test bench.
Now to recheck the wiring circuit hook ups from wall outlet to mini bike battery connectors.
Satisfied with the circuit, it was time to start testing.
I initially programmed the electrical output to lock the current draw at no more than 1 amp and voltage at no more than 24 volts.
I found the main power switch and turned it on. The LED indicators on the throttle lit up so that was a good sign. Looking at the DC to DC digital converter I could take the parasitic power draw reading from the bike when it was switched on but had the throttle in the off position.
When the throttle was activated I had to lift the rear of the bike off the workbench to allow the rear tire to free spin. I didn't get any photographs of the electrical draw under load but I averaged the bouncing display numbers in my notes.
I also found an additional on/off switch under the battery tray. This was used as a speed limiter setting. Slow speed for small kids and Fast speed for bigger kids.
It looks like we have:
- 24 volts and 2.3 amps or about 55 watts with speed switch on fast setting.
- 24 volts and 1.2 amps or about 30 watts with speed switch on slow setting.
- 24 volts and 0.1 amps or about 2.3 watts with the power switch turned on but no throttle.
As you can see, forgetting to switch the main power switch to the off position after every ride you will drain down the batteries and if left that way will contribute to battery deterioration. One of the negative of battery powered kids toys.
But it looks like the bike is electrically sound outside of missing the battery harness and fuse. It will be a pain to properly recharge the batteries as they will charge better and be healthier overall when disconnected individually and charged. Series isn't as bad as parallel batteries for recharging but its still not as optimal as individual 12v batteries.