I just reread this.
When you pull the clutch, the plates are no longer pressed together, but if they've been sitting, they still won't move past each other. If the bike is in 5th gear, you can probably break them loose (the advantage of gearing).
But as MegaDan said, rock the bike back and forth while gently shifting (engine not running), and you can find neutral to start the engine (no lunging forward when you start, not in gear).
This is your comment that tells me this:
"I found that I cannot push the bike at all with it in 1st and the clutch pulled in as well as if the clutch is pulled in and the bike is on it launches forward and stalls"
I have exactly the same behavior on my bike when the thing has been sitting. There is NO OIL between the plates. They are tightly compressed. This in normal. You have to get some oil between those plates to free them up.
You can usually break this loose by using 3rd gear, or even 4th gear. Engine NOT running, pull the clutch, roll forward in 3rd or 4th gear. This should free the two sets of plates in your clutch. The lower gearing means that when you roll the bike, the transmission has a gearing advantage on the driven side of the clutch. The engine side is held in place when the engine is not running (cylinder compression).
NOTE: If you have the bike running, in neutral, hold the brake tight when you shift into 1st gear (clutch pulled, of course). This will prevent lunging, and break loose the clutch plates (loosening the clutch plates). If the clutch is NOT engaging fully when you pull it, the engine will be stopped from turning when you hit 1st.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GaryF11
So I have a 2021 Hawk 250 and haven’t really had any issues, but about 3 weeks ago I was out riding and my clutch cable snapped I’ve since ordered 2 and neither fit one was a 46” the other a 48”. As you probably know neither worked and I cannot find the true size anywhere online so if anyone knows or can link one that’d be great.. Anyways the main issue I’m having I just found today I tried just moving the clutch lever on top of the assembly to shift the bike a few times because I’ve been out of town since the cable snapped and it hasn’t been started or ridden. I found that I cannot push the bike at all with it in 1st and the clutch pulled in as well as if the clutch is pulled in and the bike is on it launches forward and stalls when I shift to 1st so the clutch is binding obviously but my question is do y’all think 3 weeks is really enough time to seize an almost new clutch? Or do you think the clutch is just toast because prior to the cable snapping when I would ride the bike more than 15 miles or so and it would get really hot I’d have a really hard time shifting sometimes. I also wanna add that the cable snapped before I started the bike so it didn’t snap and let the clutch slam forward or anything. So I need to know the true clutch cable size and what y’all think about if it’s seized or just bad. Thank you. 2021 Hawk 250 mod list: NIBBI PE28 carb, NIBBI high sensitivity throttle, ngk spark plug, loud pipes, cat delete, lowered 3 inches, Alpena headlight and fog light, NIBBI 48mm long intake tube, NIBBI 48 mm intake, bored out exhaust manifold, JT 45t rear sprocket, JT 17t front sprocket, NICHE Oring chain.
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