Quote:
Originally Posted by Boatguy
What TxTao said and yes. Most likely it’s the second option in your post.
Your transmission may be bogging down the engine too much and not letting it get to the peak torque/hp area of the RPM curve. Makes a lot of sense based on what you’ve posted in your threads. That would easily explain your low top speed.
Definitely find the rpm torque/hp curves for your particular engine and see where the peaks are. Compare those to 6000 rpm. Se what the difference is.
Is there a way to adjust a CVT to get things right?
Based on your posts and a guess, it seems you’ll want to adjust it in a way that allows it to slip more, reducing the gearing a bit.
Which also makes me think: are these CVTs in an oil bath? If so, are you using the right oil to let is slip enough?
Also is it possible that at 150 miles, the transmission is still breaking in? That whatever the plates or whatever are on there that slip still need to wear down a bit to slip a little better? More wear would mean more slip which would mean lower gearing and higher RPM.
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BoatGuy. Thanks for the ideas. I don't believe the trans uses a 'wet' clutch like the manual motorcycles. I think the clutch is a dry clutch without any adjustments in the OEM units. At least that's what I've seen so far regarding available aftermarket clutches. There are a few that have adjustable springs/weights to tune the RPM where the clutch is applied at take off but I don't think this is where the problem is. The bike starts off easily and just about where I'd expect it to using the throttle and accelerates briskly to 40 mph/6000RPM and then just won't go any faster.
I realize that the bike is still new and only has a few miles on it but I doubt as it 'breaks in' that I'll get another 15 MPH out of it. Maybe 2 or 3 more MPH but 15 is a big ask. Also, if the power band really is above 6000 RPM, I have my doubts that as it breaks in it will rev up in the 8000 RPM range. Again, this seems a big ask.
I'll keep it in mind as I fall down this rabbit hole...