As the CR27 Team was re-assembling the bike, it seemed like somebody was missing from the team and, oh yaa, that would be you guys, those following this thread! I mean you have been here from the beginning of this bike rebuild, you saw the tear down, so it did not seem right not to show you at least part of the rebuild and it is relevant to Backroad Development. The team got the front end back together and setup to good standards. I lubed the throttle and clutch cables per recommended lubricant on the HAWKS Resource thread, took apart the levers and lubricated with grease the center pins and contact points, and adjusted the throttle and clutch.
A strong electrical system is pretty important on this EFI bike so I removed the negative grounding cable and bolt from the engine and put anti seize (with copper for conduction) on the threads, sanded the wiring connector engine mounting location to remove the paint, and put some dielectric grease under the cable wire connector, bolt head, and engine attachment point which should prevent any corrosion and make disassembly easier should it ever be necessary.
A picture of the left side seal where the lip meets the spacer. The team packed the space inside the seal and between the seal and bearing with waterproof grease. Greasing the lip and the spacer prior to assembly ensures that seal lip is lubricated for long life. One of the teams pet peeves, a dry seal! On the speedometer drive gear right side, the rotating parts of the drive were lubricated and again waterproof grease gobbed in the space around and against the bearing and drive gear. The axle is lightly coated with grease to prevent rust. Ready for more than a few stream crossings do believe.
The Team wanted to make sure the wiring contact issues at the headstock were resolved so we spent some money and time obtaining ½ inch and ¾ inch plastic wiring conduit and added it where the stock conduit ends with a good taping. We then used zip ties to construct a support system top to bottom and side to side to keep the wiring loom off the head light bracket. We also re-routed the clutch cable from outside the loom to an inside location and disconnected the front brake line to reposition it from over the loom to a place under the loom.
HEADS UP! If you take apart the front brake line, be prepared to replace the copper washers that seal the line. We took this one apart, re-routed it and then re-filled it with fresh synthetic DOT 3 brake fluid, got it working good then realized the washers leaked at the master cylinder. Copper washers are used because they compress and after I had tightened it a couple of times it would not compress and seal. Sometimes you can get away with taking it off and replacing it and it will reseal but Murphy’s law rules, what can go wrong will, and it did today, so be ready. I happen to have a pack I got off amazon I was using for another purpose so I drained it and put new washers on. The team has done so much work on these China Bikes the garage is like a parts warehouse!
TRIVIA: What is the obvious and new addition to the bike from the picture?