Full oil change with the oil cooler. The "It works, but slightly messy" method that I utilized tonight will be my go-to method with my planned longer change intervals of 1000 miles. It is a little more involved time wise than just draining the oil and topping it off, but it does ensure that a majority of the old oil is out of the entire system.
I will also note that the center stand made this a lot easier to do, so having the bike level and upright really helped.
Step 1. Remove the drain bolt from the block and drain the sump and leave it out.
Step 2. Undo the fitting for the line from the sump to the oil cooler at the oil cooler end. This allows the line to drain back into the sump and thus into the oil pan beneath. This also facilitates unscrewing the oil filter screen housing to clean said screen.
Step 3. Remove the banjo bolt for the feed line to the oil pump at the block fitting and hang it over your oil drain pan. This will allow the line to drain.
Step 4. Install the drain plug bolt back into the block once all of the oil has drained.
Step 5. This required finding a fitting that I sourced from a local speed shop. It is an M12 metric O-ring to 3/8" hose barb adapter. I screwed this into the oil cooler where the sump banjo bolt was removed. I then pushed the end of the 3/8" hose for my oil transfer pump (Link to something similar:
https://www.amazon.com/Performance-T...e%2C177&sr=1-5 ) on to the barb end and secured with a small hose clamp.
From there I just pumped oil into the cooler, forcing oil out of it and down the disconnected line to the pump and let it drain into the oil pan below until it started to come out clean and then let it finish running out the line until it was done dripping.
Step 6: Reinstall the line to the pump on the block fitting, and then set the bike on the side stand. I removed the barb fitting and then slowly used the pump and hose to add oil to the cooler in order to prime the line to the pump. I stopped once the oil no longer went down in the cooler and then made a little mess as it overflowed a bit (oops). I then reinstalled the line from the sump at the oil cooler end and placed the bike back up on the center stand.
Step 7: the obvious step, filled the sump.
This is where the big oil cooler and the lines come into play as far as capacity. I already have the cooler full, and the line to the pump primed. I filled the oil to the top of the sight glass, what should be too full. I then started it, let it run for a few minutes, shut it off, let it sit a few more minutes to drain, and voila, no oil in the sight glass when vertical. If I tilted the bike to the right a bit it would show, so it wasn't empty, but it definitely shows just how much oil those lines to and from the oil cooler hold. Topped it off, and done.
By far the most complicated oil change I have ever done lol.
As far as the coolers functionality, it definitely made a difference. This oil had about 600 miles on it, and while dark enough to obviously not be new, it was not as dark as the oil was at about 400 miles (oil from second oil change during break in) before I installed the cooler. So, yes, the oil life is definitely extended.
As a side note. I am glad I was able to find the Rotella T6 in 15w-40. I never liked the 5w40 T6 because of how clattery the engine was on a cold start thanks to how thin it was. The 15w40 T6 is perfect for this engine. It still flows much easier than the T4 15w-40, but still thick enough to keep the noise down, and the engine runs much smoother, and the gear shifts are smoother as well. This will be my oil of choice from now on with this bike.
