Quote:
Originally Posted by wheelbender6
Phenomenal thread. I wish the 190 engine had been available when I still had the Honda S90.
I would definitely stick with a good old carb.
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When I first read about the existence of the 190, EFI wasn't even on my mind. I think all the reading up on people doing swaps with them triggered something in my mind to think about all of the engine-related projects I haven't yet had the chance to do. I think I came across a youtube video of someone with an FI 190. That put EFI in my head. I remembered back a few... wow, more than a few, maybe 10 or 11 years ago I was reading a book about either turbocharging or EFI tuning (neither of which I could even dream of doing at that time, but I was and still am information hungry) and the author mentioned megasquirt. That put megasquirt in my head. Then I read a post on a forum, it may have even been this forum, that there was a seller on aliexpress offering small-engine EFI kits inexpensively. That put the aliexpress kit in my head.
After that, my future project was set in stone.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JerryHawk250
This thread is now a sticky.  To much info here to get buried in the forum. |
Ah shucks, my first stickied thread. All of you are going to make me blush
. In all seriousness, thanks dude, I really appreciate that.
I got to trying the new 2-cylinder settings today. There are a few combinations of settings in the ECU that could give me the amount of fuel and number of sparks I need. For now I'm settling on "2" cylinders, one injector, wasted spark, one injection per engine cycle, engine and injector size stay the same. From my understanding, these settings will tell the ECU that there is a single injector shared between two cylinders in a parallel-twin configuration. Spark is shared between the "two" cylinders; when one cylinder is on it's compression stroke, the other would be on it's exhaust stroke, so the spark can happen on both cylinders at the same time. We only have one "real" cylinder, but the spark output from the ECU will still work.
In the real world, on the bike, the electrical gremlin was still there with the new settings. I had also noticed that the tachometer signal was wildly jumping around. There was a setting in the ECU to filter out rogue crank speed signals. I can choose one or a combination of noise rejection settings based on the width of the tach pulse, dead time after tach pulse received, and time between pulses. I started with using the width-based rejection and after a bit of tuning, I have it almost acceptable. Within a few days, I'll try using the time-between-pulses (they call it tach period rejection) setting with and without the width-based filter.
I have been giving thought to staring out with going fuel-only ECU control during the first part of the tuning adventure. Unless I had a really lean mixture, I have never had a scooter/motorcycle CDI cause knock. The spark advance map I have now is a copy of what was sent on the aliexpress ECU. I have no idea if it is good, let alone safe. If I use the CDI and CDI coil, I only have to worry about a lean mixture blowing up my engine, not over-zealous ignition advance. Luckily I had the foreskin... I mean forethought to keep the crank VR sensor usable by a CDI and kept the stock CDI connector wired into the harness as well as the CDI coil's power feed and ground wires. I haven't yet made the final decision to use the CDI or not, but as long as I can send the crank VR sensor's signal to BOTH the CDI and the ECU with little to no signal degradation, I will be leaning toward the CDI.
Back to the dashboard. I used the pinout diagram I showed previously and mapped functions to all of the pins on the dash's main connector. The only differences in the PCB labeling was; the +5v to the front wheel speed sensor is marked "H+" on the dash, not "5V", the check-engine-light was labeled "F", not "DP", the fuel level input was labeled "EF", not "FUEL", and the tach signal was labeled "ZS", not "REV". Nearly all of the wire colors are different along with the pin positions in the connector, but ALL of the connections were there!
The main connector the dash uses is almost universally used as a power connector for motherboards. Google "ATX 20 pin connector" and you'll see billions of results. I happen to be a hoarder of extra/surplus wire, as well as all things electro-mechanical. I had on old power cable from a modular power supply. I extracted two wires with terminals from the cable and plugged the terminals into the two vacant spaces in the dash's connector. Now I had easy access to those inputs while the dash could be fully connected to the bike. I love when stuff like that just falls into place.
On one of the pictures I posted before from an amazon reviewer had resistance vs degrees points for the temperature input pin. It looked like the resistance went from about 80 ohms (120 degrees C), up to about 500 ohms (60 degrees C). I got a 1000 ohm potentiometer and connected it between the dash's temp input and ground. I didn't hook up a multimeter to see what was happening at what resistance, sorry. If I turned the pot all the way to one side (less resistance), the temperature indicator eventually turned on. If I turned the pot all the way to the other side, eventually the indicator light would go out. If I turned the pot to the middle, and then clicked through the display modes on the dash (odometer/trip), a temperature would display on the dash! To avoid confusion and increase compatibility, the dash will just not give you the option to view the temperature if it thinks that either nothing is connected to the temp input, but it will turn on/off the temp indicator without the temp display if you connect the temp input straight to ground. I heavily suspect there is some hardware or software smoothing of the temperature signal. I measured a 14 second delay between grounding the temp input and the indicator light coming on, and a 8 second delay when letting the temp input float (not connected to anything). Not exactly a basic on/off light, bit still perfectly usable as a indicator. Also, the temperature display on the dash goes from 0 degrees C to 71 degrees C. At >= 46 degrees C, the displayed temp starts to flash, and the indicator light turns on steady. At 71 degrees C, the temperature stopped rising as I was still turning the pot, and eventually the temp display went an odometer, but the temp indicator light stayed on.
The input for the CEL is just a basic light connection. Just ground the CEL wire from the dash and the indicator turns on instantly and turns off instantly when left floating. Both the temp and CEL light are red, though the CEL looks orange in the pics.
With the dash on the bike and connected to the wiring harness, all the indicator lights still worked and the temp display could be summoned if needed. Looks like we have two more free indicator lights. Almost.
The clear acrylic that covers the dash has a black plastic backing piece glued to it that is blocking us from seeing the two "new" lights. I don't think I could drill precisely enough to only go though the black plastic and not the clear. Unless I think of a better way, the current kinda-planish-thing is to just drill straight through the back and clear plastic, get some CLEAR silicone/silicone alternative/epoxy/glue/resin, and fill the new light's holes up to the thickness of the arcylic piece (guesstimate ~ 1.5mm). Although I don't intend to ride in rainy weather or to store this bike out of a garage, keeping the dash as water/weather resistant as possible is something I want to do.
I think that is it for tonight.