I took the more expensive route in order to solve the brake light switch situation and decided to eliminate the mechanical rear brake switch from the bike. To me, this is an upgrade. I hate mechanical brake switches for numerous reasons.
Anyway, I used a Goodrich M10x1.25 Banjo Bolt pressure switch.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It does come with new copper crush washers if you are thinking of ordering one. The listing didn't specify but I am glad I didn't go buy more.
There is one catch to this switch though, the wiring is not quite long enough to try and re-pin with the stock connector. I got around this by simply cutting off part of the stock switch wiring and the connector and then soldered it on to the Goodrich wires. A nice little bonus is that the cap for the stock switch wiring is a nice fit to cover the top of the Goodrich switch as well, so I transferred it and the plastic sheathing over to the banjo switch.
Also, as a side note, the Goodrich switch has 2 red wires. There is no dedicated power or ground, so it doesn't matter what wire you solder to, it will work either direction.
Definitely makes for a much cleaner looking install.
After it was all said and done I went ahead and re-filled the system and gave it a bleed. As a side note, I tried my cheap little fluid vacuum pump that came with a brake bleeding hose. Works damn good. I went from no fluid to rock solid pedal within less than 5 minutes. I kind of did a mix of hand pumping until I started getting a little pressure in the pedal, and then just continuously drained with the vacuum pump while keeping the reservoir full. Did a few old fashioned pump and bleeds, then a couple more vacuum pump bleeds. No mush.
Vacuum pump extractor thingymajig.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Then, as a reward to myself and the bike I went and took it for a quick wash at the local pay and spray to get the grit and grime off.
Puuuuuurty.
