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Old 11-02-2017, 10:16 PM   #20
pistolclass   pistolclass is offline
 
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: connecticut
Posts: 978
For adjusting the carb folks have gone a couple of ways. Some crack open the tamper proof screws and shim needles and rejet. Other (myself included) buy a $34 Mukini (it is a total fake but works great) from Ebay and a $12 jet kit and tinker from there. Either way is fine.

The $34 one I bought has groves on the needle so you don't need to shim you just adjust the needle by changing a little washer thingy's position on the needle.

Buying it was a little bit of a hedge for me because if I totally boogered up the adjustment on the replacement I could always just put the stock one back in.

Without a doubt the most noticeable changes were the valve adjustment and the new/rejetted carb for me. I have a 110 main and the stock 20 pilot in it with the needle set at the lowest (richest) position. I'm 2 turns out on the mixture screw. I realize that my pilot is still a little lean but I'm making up for it with the mixture screw. It is not the textbook way to do it, but my bike really runs good and I don't want to mess with it running so well. BTW I'm completely stock on the Airbox and exhaust. Once you start openning those up you will need more fuel.

The valve adjustment really helped the Hawk start up quickly. I had to crank it over longer before it would run, but once the valves are set properly it started much quicker.



Last edited by pistolclass; 11-02-2017 at 10:20 PM. Reason: beecuzz Im huuked on fonicks.
 
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