Quote:
Originally Posted by RustyShackleford15
Can the stock sprocket be tightened down in anyway without the use of new sprockets like you recommend? I read that you said the center bore may be the culprit, so I guess not.
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The center bore is just a speculation. I never measured it. Try my method I used on the JT Sprocket to see if your stock sprocket can be installed without any play.
Method. 1. Remove Snap Ring (with a proper pair of snap ring pliers), remove sprocket and studs from wheel.
2. Install studs on the sprocket finger tight - ensure the flats sit in the groove on the back of the channel.
3. Install sprocket and stud assembly to wheel, and reinstall snap ring - ensuring the snap ring is FULLY seated in the channel on the hub.
4. Removing and reinstalling one at a time, take off the nuts on the sprocket, add loctite to the stud threads, and spin the nuts back on finger tight.
5. Once all studs/nuts have loctite, tighten down in a cross pattern.
If that doesn't take the slop out of the sprocket, then it is most likely the sprocket that is the problem. Definitely report back if that is the case and add to the cause. I think with enough evidence gathered, we may be able to petition RPS of a known safety hazard due to a production/manufacturing flaw. I can sure promise you they will start honoring warranties if they get threatened with legal action backed by evidence of multiple failures.
As far as the 17 and 45 being out of stock, that happens a lot (Thousands of Hawks have been sold recently). As Jerry stated, you can simply get a 40 tooth rear, or you can go with a 16 front/43 rear. Those two combinations have more or less the same gear ratio as a 17/45. The 16/43 may require removing a link or two from a 130 link chain, the 15/40 combo will definitely require removing some links from a 130 link chain. Personally, I like the 16/43 combination, and kind of wish I went that route. It starts with around a 2.70 (2.69 exactly) ratio just like the 17/45, and with a simple +1 or -1 on the front sprocket, you can choose between slightly better highway with a 17 (2.53 ratio), or slightly better off-road with a 15 (2.87 ratio). Not a huge difference, but it definitely gives some flexibility.
Whatever you choose, realize that it is just a starting point, and you will want to adjust the ratio to your preference and how the bike is used a majority of the time. Since I plan on mainly riding around on the road, but still occasionally want to run a mild trail from time to time, I tried to find a good compromise. Either way, the stock 15/50 gearing is just way too short for this bike and transmission gearing.