[zingshoen]

yes, but if you get a new engine it may still need help.

i would just get what i need, maybe wire can be fixed with soldering? you ll need to get into the electrical system and make sure all components are good and do what you want them to do. below some of the notes i copied form other authors, use with a grain of salt. get a wiring diagram for your bike or make one up. it s easy once you get your head around it. make sure u have good grounds, from neg batt terminal to frame, use thick wire. i underlined the relevant sections below. good luck, i m going to hit the sack!

Zongshen 230 Electrics
The red wire and the yellow wire came from the windings on the stator. These will need to be hooked to a rectifier/voltage regulator. The green/white wire is a ground. I grounded it to the block with my other grounds.
The blue/white wire came from the pulse generator magneto (for lack of better term), and the black/red wire came from the body of the magneto.
Having extracted the original connectors for the CDI from the rat's nest, I determined that the black/red wire needed to be connected to the lower pin of the 2-pin connector on the CDI. The upper pin is what you short to ground for a kill switch.
Then I located the 4-pin connector for the CDI. Turns out only three pins are used. Upper left is pulse from the magneto (blue/white), upper right is coil output, and lower right is a ground.
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Three yellow wires to the regulator is standard fare for a three phase battery charging scheme. Blue/White (CDI timing trigger) and Green/White (trigger return) are standard colors for the CDI trigger function. If your CDI is DC powered then that's all the wires needed out of the stator. If your CDI is AC powered then we need another wire (usually black/red) coming out the stator as well

Just to verify that the blue/white and green white go to the timing pickup coil inside the stator, take a meter and set it to measure resistance on the 2K ohm scale (2000 ohms). Measure the resistance between the blue/white and green/white wires into the engine. What do you measure?
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The green wire getting very hot tells me that there is a grounding issue somewhere else causing the motor to ground through the stator ground wire (the green one).
The first thing I would double check is the ground circuit on the machine. The negative side of the battery should go to a ground lug on the frame, from that same point there should be another ground wire running to the motor, usually connected under a valve cover bolt. Make sure these connecions are clean and tight. Now, if those are correct, then I would suspect that there is a problem with the new stator.
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ground wire to emgine case lower rear, 10mm wire!
This is a very important connection as all the heavy currents to the starter motor, from the alternator and others go through this. It's important that it be kept tight and corrosion-free to ensure a low resistance connection.
An important piece of advice to add is that the ground lug should go on the bottom half of the case. Since this is the return for the starter motor (which only has a positive supplied to it), you should not allow the return current to take a path that involves going through the upper half of the case and hence all the sealing goo used to put the cases together.

The idea is to find if there's a voltage drop along the earth cable and its connections. By measuring the battery voltage first you have a reference figure to aim at.

You should get more or less the same when you move the negative meter lead on to the crankcase. If you get more than around 0.1 volt drop there's a problem in the cable path.

You could also measure resistance with the meter in the low ohms range as you suggest. Don't know what sort of resistance figure is aceptable for a good joint though.

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The Ignition Power winding and Timing/Trigger resistances (200 ohms and 124 ohms) sound like they are in the realm of possibly being correct. It varies some from stator design to stator design. All three windings in the stator (the other being the battery charge winding) are just coils of wire. The resistance of each winding is set by the total length of wire used to make the coil and the gauge of wire used.

The two things that can go wrong with the stator windings are:
1) A wire breaks (and the winding becomes open)
2) A wire shorts to another wire (or to ground)

You've eliminated possibility #1 already. Shorts in any of the stator windings will drastically affect the output voltage of that winding. The best way to test the stator for shorts is to measure the stator output voltages while cranking. To do this the meter must be set to AC volts. Also, (important) the ignition power winding (blk/red) must be disconnected from the CDI when making these measurements or the measured results are meaningless.

The ignition power winding should read 80 volts AC or so to engine ground while cranking. The ignition timing/trigger line should read 0.3 volts AC to engine ground. The latter voltage is actually a complicated waveform what meters don't measure well, so it may vary a bit from meter to meter, but you should measure something other than zero volts.

the yellow wire coming out of the reg/rec never has its own power, it just "T's" into the yellow wire that comes from the engine's stator wire, that then goes to the headlight dimmer switch. it takes excess voltage and delivers it back to ground. thus the regulator part of the regulator/rectifier.