[david3921]

New update; I turned the key on after checking wires and such and the N light came on. 15 minutes later, it didn't.

Yep, a big ol' cat toy.

I did check the diode per the manuals and the interwebs. One website says between .6 and .7 on the meter, the english manual says .4 to .7, and the P one shows a meter reading .651. I got .554 when I checked. I'm guessing it's ok.

Here's the really strange part in all this. Last year the starter relay was clicking. I went to TSC and got one for a tractor as the bolt pattern fit. It is made in China, or course. Anyway, the old one had a plug with two wires. One was Y/G and the other B/W as seen in the picture below. Neither manual show these colors. When I was replacing the relay I checked which wire triggers the relay. It was the Y/G. So I cut the wires at the plug and installed a female spade end for the relay on the Y/G and a female post end for the B/W and wired them up. The bike started fine.

Here's were it gets weird.

When the guy pushed the bike back I was able to start it with the kick starter but not the electric. After a few attemps, the 15A fuse blew. I screwed around with this for awhile trying to figure out what was going on. Long-story-short, I had to reverse the Y/G and B/W wires as now their polarity has reversed. WTH! It starts just like it did before but it shouldn't. Those same wires are loomed up next to the diode. The diagrams show that the diode is also tied into the neutral wire and the starter relay.

The diode is reading good but all evidence says that it isn't. I'm going to see if Radio Shack has what I need to replace it and I will report back.

Maybe .554 isn't good enough.

Oh yeah, something else. The bike will start in gear and I don't recall that happening before either. I just check and yep, it's tied into the diode also.