2020 Hawk DLX check engine light on
 

Hey y'all. I have a 2020 Hawk DLX that I've put around 1400 miles on. It's been a great bike so far. I went to go for a ride the other day and the check engine light would not go off and the bike was running rough. I can turn the switch on and off twice, then leave it on the third turn and the check engine light will throw a code of 0112. (The light flashes 10 times, then once, then once, then twice, pauses and repeats the code) I've messed with it for a few days and can't find the issue. It's driving me nuts, and I can't find any info specific to the hawk concerning this code. I could use some help here. I've changed the air filter, put a new NGK plug, greased all the connecters with electrical grease, cleaned the battery posts and put non corrosion grease on them and no results. Any suggestions?

That code looks like it is for the intake air temperature sensor for all motorcycles. I would almost assume that that is a fairly standard code assignment. Certainly no harm in checking that first.

Thanks. I'll check that out today.

I think it is generic OBD 2 code P0112.
Intake Air Temp circuit low. The computer is seeing a short or open in the IAT circuit.
Check wires and connectors at the IAT and at the computer. If the circuit is good replace the IAT and clear codes. If that doesn't work the only thing left is computer.
I do not know how to clear a hawk. It may be as simple as disconnecting the battery for a while. If not it may require a scanner.

Are you sure your battery is sufficient for the job? The battery that came with my Hawk DLX wouldn’t have been. Another thing make sure your fuel tank breather isn’t partially plugged. Just my thoughts 😎

Check the IAT sensor with an ohms meter for resistance. The readings should be close to the following for reference. You can heat the sensor with a hair dryer to test the ranges.

Temperature/ Resistance
100 C (212 F) 2.07 K-ohms

90 C (194 F) 2.8 K-ohms

80 C (176 F) 3.8 K-ohms

70 C (158 F) 5.4 K-ohms

60 C (140 F) 7.7 K-ohms

50 C (122 F) 11 K-ohms

40 C (104 F) 16 K-ohms

30 C (86 F) 24 K-ohms

20 C (68 F) 37 K-ohms

Thanks for the suggestions everybody. I'll see 2hat I can figure out.

It's the stock battery. It has worked so far. I might go ahead and order a better one anyway.

Before you order a battery... See what the voltage is at rest (with a voltmeter/multimeter). You might disconnect it from the bike for the test, then connect it and repeat (shouldn't change if nothing is drawing current)... It should be charged when you do this test. At least 12.5 is OK but kind of weak, maybe 13 or more should be observed across the poles. If it drives the starter and starts the bike, it isn't likely to be causing the problem.

Yeah, it cranks and drives the bike no problem.

Ahh.... Cool. Save your money for the part that (might) need replacing!
Based on the other posts and advice, you are on the right track. I didn't know you could pull codes from these bikes!

Thanks. Yeah, it's 2 key turns on/off then on the third key turn leave it in the on position.

I ordered the carbureted model specifically because it dosen't have a computer and the carb is 28 dollars. Lol

I kinda wish I would have done the same. That EFI is nice, but I hate, hate, hate messing with electrical systems. HAHA

Oh, Duh
 

Oh, I missed that. It is a EFI model. Now I see what's going on. No, my primitive, naturally aspirated bike has no code storage!

Reminds me...I have a Suzuki GSX1250FA (Bandit), and the EFI always makes me think twice about any long rides. It has never failed, has monstrous controllable torque, and gets me great Fuel economy (at least 40mpg) no matter how I drive it. But more than once I shut it down with the kill switch, then turned it back on with kill switch, and the EFI was all screwed up, stumbling...bad in traffic!
So I turn key off, turn back on, start it, and it apparently resets and works fine. Weird. So I never use the kill switch to turn it off if I am not really done with the trip! And yes, I will always use a mechanical carb on any single cylinder bike. Trouble with it... clean it up and put it back on the bike. Done.