Valve adjustment assistance
 

I have been trying to adjust my valves this morning, and I could use some assistance. It's Ok to laugh...a little.

In order to avoid an electric spark to my gas tank while sitting on the bike I placed the rubber floor mat from my Honda car under the tank, and then strapped it to the bike.
Attachment 2938


I have been able to remove the rear valve cover, but the front valve cover does not appear accessible. I have removed the one bolt from each side of the radiator, but there is still too much stuff blocking access to the front valve cover. What specifically needs to be done?

Thank you in advance.

I think the floor mat is going to make a tough first job much more difficult. ;) I suggest you remove the electrical connections from the fuel pump and the fuel gauge. Also remove the two vent hoses. Finally, remove the fuel hose that connects the fuel pump to the fuel filter by pressing the two buttons.

When you remove the fuel hose, gas will start to leak from the tank. However, the leak will quickly stop if you turn the tank upside down. Set the tank aside in a safe place with the fuel tank in an inverted position, resting on the closed gas cap. ;)

When you have finished the valve adjustment, replace the fuel tank by reversing the steps described above, installing the fuel line to the fuel filter as the first step.

You also need to loosen the two bolts for each radiator, which enables you to move the radiators out of your way in order to access the exhaust valves. You don't need to drain the coolant, or disconnect any of the radiator hoses. You merely need to remove the mounting bolts for the two radiators. ;) Once the radiators are capable of being pushed out of the way, you will be able to access the exhaust valves from either, or both sides of the engine.

While you have everything apart, remove the radiator cap, and add more coolant to the radiators. Then fill the plastic, radiator overflow bottle.

To make this job easier, I use a pair of needle nose pliers to disconnect the hose from the overflow bottle. Then I remove the hose from the bottle, which greatly facilitates removing the screw cap. After filling the coolant to the top line in the overflow bottle, replace the screw cap and the hose. Finally, use a pair of needle nose pliers to slide the clamp securing the hose back onto the screw cap. ;)

Thank you.
The rear valves are adjusted. I just need to do the frt valves.

I removed this bolt to loosen the radiators (one on each side)
Attachment 2941

The issue is I have large hands, and the frame brace that supports the radiator appears to be blocking access to the frt. valve cover. How do I get my hand and the required tools past the frame brace to access the frt. valve cover?

Attachment 2942

topping off Radiator with fluid
 

Thanks, good idea!

There are two bolts which secure each radiator. You need to locate, and remove the other two bolts. Once both bolts are removed from both radiators, you can push the radiators out of the way to make room for your hands.

You won't be able to fit your hands past that frame brace. I accessed the exhaust valves from the left and right sides of the bike, working in the enlarged areas I created by pushing/pulling the radiators out of the way. ;)

dave92029, I feel your pain. I about committed hari-kari when trying to adjust the valves. Getting the bolt loose on the LH side top of the radiator was next to impossible. Something that should take less then 1 min to loosen took me 30-45 min of temper unmanagement. I think next time I do the valves I will take the top 2 radiator mount bolds on both sides and try to reverse how they go through the mounting bracket somehow. If they would of welded the nut onto the radiator bracket instead of inside the main frame and threaded the bolt through from the inside of the frame there is plenty of room to get your hand in there.
Having said that, I'm amazed at the engineering that went into this bike. Everything looks neat and orderly and while not fitting quit like it should all the time, it's working.
I've have one of the air box filters cover screws (lower right) that I can't get to because its right behind the frame and inaccessible . So I just leave it out rather then trying to distort the box to get it in. One of the pannier mounting bolt was impossible to put in because either the bracket frame hole was welded off center or the hole in the pannier was drilled aboult 1/4" off center so I couldn't get it started with the other 3 loosely installed. A round file fixed that in a few minutes.


[QUOTE=SpudRider;To make this job easier, I use a pair of needle nose pliers to disconnect the hose from the overflow bottle. Then I remove the hose from the bottle, which greatly facilitates removing the screw cap. After filling the coolant to the top line in the overflow bottle, replace the screw cap and the hose. Finally, use a pair of needle nose pliers to slide the clamp securing the hose back onto the screw cap. ;)[/QUOTE]

Good ideas, but I'll one up you by being a lazy man. I use the pliers to take the top hose clamp off of the hose to the overflow bottle. Then I put a small funnel into the hose and fill the overflow bottle with out removing or loosening the overflow cap. rj

Too Tight!
 

I found the second radiator bolt and removed it. Moved the radiator to the side so that I have access to the 8mm valve cover bolt BUT, I can't budge the valve cover bolt. I get the 8 mm socket wrench on the bolt, add an extender to the socket wrench for leverage, and the 8mm bolt does not budge!

I'm a strong man with much better than average hand strength, and the 8mm bolt will not budge! Is it possible that the guy on the assembly line played a joke and used lock tight on this bolt?

I have tried several times, taken a break for some ice cream (energy food) and still no movement.

Any suggestions? I'm getting really tired and frustrated.

HelP!:cry:

just in case you haven't done this already.

Try whacking your socket wrench with the palm of your hand. The shock will normally free up small tight bolts.

Remember you need to keep the socket square and firmly on the bolt head while doing this.

Also I seem to remember when doing mine that the bolt head is in quite a tight recess. I think I used a 1/4 inch drive long socket because of it being thinner allowing it to fit the bolt head without coming into contact with the sides of the valve cap recess .

Attachment 2946

You need to make sure your socket isn't binding in the small gap:)

I had one of my valve cover bolts really tight also and thought I would strip something trying to get it out. It did finally break loose with a pop. Several other bolts on the motorcycle were equally tight. They seem very inconsistent with their bolt tightening , rj

Thanks for the great tip, RJ. :tup:

Please excuse my belated reply. I went to church, then got involved in a project trying to fix the high/low switch of the headlight switchgear on my RX3. :ohno:

It was so tight, I stripped the head on one of the intake valve cover bolts. :wtf: I cut a notch in the bolt head with my dremel tool, then chiseled the bolt loose. :ohno: After I finished the valve adjustment, I went to the hardware store and bought four, hardened, flange head bolts to replace the green Chicom bolts. ;)

I'm still a ways out from having to do my valve check, but was wondering if there are any special tools I should have on hand before I do so. I've acquired a set of feeler gauges from Spud's favorite shop (harbor freight ;) while i was purchasing a punch kit in case i wanted to mess with my suspension/shock adjustment again)

I've heard that tappet adjusters/tools might make it easier....

My Tusk Compact T-Handle Wrench Set makes it easy to remove the valve cover bolts and the radiator bolts. :tup: I don't know how I lived without this tool set. :)

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...t-handle%20set

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/i..._t_han_wre.jpg

In this instance, because of the limited space available, I don't think valve adjuster tools will help. I hold the tappets in place from above with a long screwdriver, and turn the lock nut with a quality, 8mm combination wrench. ;)

http://www.lowes.com/pd_337658-25428...ination+wrench

enlighten me on how you actually adjust the valves guys.
What is confusing me is that even if gap is a bit loose can it still work ?
The tolerance is .0016-.0024 thousands converted from the .04-.06 metric (sorry I can't relate to .04-.06 metric ). When I did mine, I put a .003 thousands feeler in there , ran the adjuster down and tightened the nut. Then felt with the .002 feeler and it was loose. I left it there. Runs just like when new and no noticeable difference in noise, performance.
Hoping I was safe as the valve clearance gets tighter as valve wears into head more.
So if I were to put a .004 feeler in and adjust it to that thickness which would be twice the clearance, it would only push the valve down 1 thousands of an inch less. Bigger clearance = less valve movement. What am I missing here that they need to be so close?
So do you put the thicker feeler gage in between the valve and threaded adjuster. Then turn the threaded adjuster down till it just touches the feeler gage and then tighten the threaded adjuster lock nut and call it good ? Or do you try to "feel" how much pressure is on the feeler gage and by tightening and loosening get it to feel just right between the 2 feeler gages?
Seems to me as long as it's on the loose side it would be ok. but maybe I'm missing something here. rj