Oil/Air Separator Canister Experiment
 

OCS?

I think that means "oil canister separator"? ...but I'm not sure.

Or maybe OSC: Oil separator canister?

CSC calls it the oil/air separator.

Here's the explanation of what the OCS does according to Joe B. on the CSC Blog.

http://californiascooterco.com/blog/?p=21183

On all my current/previous motorcycles the crankcase vent tube runs directly to the air box.

So at 5,081 miles on my RX3, I changed the oil (20w50 Mobil 1), and replaced the oil/air separator with a hose directly to the air box.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psxuzsa1xt.jpg


One thousand ten miles later:

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps6qrqhnhh.jpg

Another oil change:

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps3ns5s1vn.jpg

The good part:

The magnetic drain plug was not full of sludge as on previous oil changes.

Only small particles:

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psioidl2y9.jpg

The part that has me concerned:

The oil level sight glass (it was at the mid point at the beginning of the experiment):

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psypzhsadd.jpg

And the air box drain tube:

Previously, since new, this tube has been empty.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...pstjwda69v.jpg


Tomorrow the oil sample goes off to Blackstone.

On a lighter note, the RX3 has been running GREAT!

No stalling, smooth transmission shifting, good stopping brakes, good power and handling on the steep, curvy mountain roads.

Yesterday at Lake Nottley, near Blairsville, North Georgia:

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psbwsttwlc.jpg

jb

Thanks for the update! I'm also running a direct line to the airbox and have experienced excellent engine performance. But in my case no residue in the airbox catch tube.

Running the crankcase vent line run directly into the airbox, a little oil in the airbox catch tube is 100% normal. I would even say it's a good thing. If oil contaminants get that far, lighter fuel vapors are almost guaranteed to as well.

Your Blackstone results will tell the full story. If the fuel level in your oil is the same or less than other RX3s that were using the OCS (about 4% fuel), then that's a strong argument against using the OCS and pouring out the catch tube all the time.

Nice work jb! I have yet to have any real collection on my drain plug nor anything in my screens. Weird....

Mrs. 2LZ noticed last night that the elbow was kinked running the OCS in the "correct" position....so today I eliminated it all and ran mine to the ground today like the TT250 to completely eliminate the swamp gas going into the intake, then plugged off the air box inlet.

I cleared the ECM and took it out. Yes, it acts generally better, seemed smoother but the most noticeable thing was it has never idled this nicely. No stalling, very stable 1600-1700 rpms.

I'll put on more miles and see how it goes. I can blow up "bin bags" on the run now!

You may want to put a one-way check valve on the end of that line, or at least a filter. Your crankcase sucks air back in when the piston returns to TDC, and you don't want dirty outside air to get sucked back in there.

jbfla, I assume your bike was warm when you took that oil level reading that shows over full? I've found a good difference between a warm bike oil level and a cold and I have to assume must of us are filling the bikes back up with cold oil post oil change.

Yes, the engine was warm, and I added cold oil for the change.

I'm pretty exact on oil level. I use a measuring cup to add oil for an oil change.

And I check the oil level every time I ride, using the method outlined in the CSC Blog.

The level is always between the two marks on the sight glass.....this is the first time it wasn't.

jb

Whoops, double post. Dangit... :-(

This is something Ive tussled over for years. No bike I've ever owned (in the old days, pre-crank gas recirc) had ever even come with anything but a ground vent. I've been through streams and creaks and have never sucked in any water. I may run a filter on the end just because..........

jb, I just changed my oil yesterday and it was slightly higher than the top measurement on the glass...and I'm pretty sure I had it between them. I was wondering if the kink in my OCS line was causing it NOT to evaporate off the gasoline???? It's the main reason I eliminated it all. Now I need to ride and check it.

Not to highjack but here's a pic.

When changing the oil it really makes no difference if the new oil is room temp or not. Yes, it's best to drain the old oil out when the engine is hot so you get all the suspended particles. When it comes to adding oil the volume is what counts and that hardly changes at all between room temp and 250F. One thing that CSC stresses is how to check your oil. I think that's because there is a sump for the transmission. If you drain both the crankcase and tranny sumps you cannot get a correct measurement on the sight glass until you run the engine a bit and thus fill that sump. As you know, we are talking about a very small volume of oil.

Peter Y.

Here's the correct method for measuring the oil level.....direct from the Zong engineers:

http://californiascooterco.com/blog/?p=17257

jb

2LZ,

I didn't mean to imply that my RX3 engine runs any better with the crankcase vent hose running directly to the airbox.

My engine has always run to perfection.

Even when there was the incident with the damaged cam, the engine started with the first push of the starter button, and ran great.

If I could get the fuel/oil business stabilized, and get someone to adjust the exhaust valves for me, I would have nothing to complain about.... :)

....well, maybe that softer spring for the rear shock would help.... :tup:

jb

LOL! No kidding! Maybe someone can put on a 'travelling exhaust valve adjustment" clinic! I'd pay! We ham-fisted mutants aren't as nimble as we once were.

That's been the one thing between my brothers blue bike and mine. His blips to a start each and every time. Mines always cranked a few, has had odd idles on occasion and also stalled once every blue moon. I'm hoping this vent will cure some of that by opening up proper breathing. It sure helped stabilize the idle.

Experiment # 2

Plugged the hose from the separator canister, and opened the drain tube.

Will ride another 1,000 miles in this configuration to see what happens:

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psfd5g124j.jpg


Plugged the air box:

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps9t0kgz3a.jpg


To make Detours happy, I tried to find a filter or PCV valve to put on the end of the drain tube. The only thing I had that would fit was a right angled fuel filter from my TW 200. Have not decided whether or not to keep it on.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps9mbb2lr2.jpg

This was the oil level with the engine fully warmed up.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...pskc9xieee.jpg


I noticed the new oil turned milky colored within a few minutes of starting the engine. I hope this is not an indication of a problem.

jb

It should yield the same result as routing the ocs to the breather box...albeit with more emissions since you are venting the vapor. The milky oil is condensation. ..happens in my older volvo sometimes. Run it and it should burn off. Keep us posted.

Looks more frothy than milky to me.

How does it taste?





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