Sproket Wear Issue
 

I've been lurking on this forum for 3 months now. Never really owned a motorcycle so a newb. Researched all the models and decided on the carbureted Hawk 250.

I've been breaking it in with the "ride it like you stole it" method my white trash neighbor insists is the best way... We'll see how that works out!

I've also been keeping everything stock. With the idea that once broken in, when I make mods and upgrades in the future, I can feel it. I just hit 600units on the odometer so I figured it was time.

I made my first major upgrade this weekend by going with the 17/45 sprocket combo. Holy crap!! It has been a MAJOR almost unbelievable improvement. First gear may be a bit high but that is my only minor complaint. All you guys who have been riding these things for years need to go back to the stock 15/50 just to remind yourselves how terrible it is!

Anyways when I "made the change" I noticed my front sprocket was worn excessively on one side... the inside side... especially for only 600 on the odometer. The rear sprocket looked fine.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/cLiDMu78jCeLdiMfA
https://photos.app.goo.gl/cLiDMu78jCeLdiMfA

I'm assuming its an alignment problem but not really sure how to diagnose what is out of alignment.

If it is as simple as the rear tire was not aligned properly how do I go about making sure it is aligned? I have read the notches on the tensioners are not exactly accurate. And that counting threads on the tensioner studs is not accurate either. When I first adjusted the chain tension I used those as a starting point but then measured from the tire to the swing arm and eyeballed it best I could. I felt like it was good but what do I know!

Could the engine be mounted at an angle? Has anyone ever seen that? Could I need to shim the rear tire one way or the other? Any other ideas?

Also I ran into an issue with one of the rear studs. It had a big bump/blob on it. I had read about them being weak or improperly installed but I don't know if this is also a common problem but figured people should be on the look out for it. It looked like a bad weld job or maybe they forgot to do a post weld machining step? The factory sprocket had a big divot gouged into it from the bump. I filed the stud down best I could but likely introduced a stress concentration notch because in the process I filed away most of the transition radius as well. I will likely order some of the Honda ones recommended by Megadan.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/DDhXo1tYZHwdEuoCA
https://photos.app.goo.gl/HwaeCWo23VjB7iQq8

https://photos.app.goo.gl/hHv8xmgLzAEW7JBp8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/rpPJRBMXhgMGsYtW8

For aligning the wheel, I start with the alignment lines, then use the fingers method to feel if the wheel is actually aligned. IE, Insert fingers between tire sidewall and swingarm on both sides, and try to get the same feel for # of fingers and how snug they are. Probably as good as anything.

Also, stock sprockets are low-quality metal, so getting Honda or JT sprockets will be a big help. Change the chain at the same time too of course, with a better one.

Congrats on the new bike!

Chief if you have access to a 3 D printer, there is a chain alighnment tool easy to print that you fit about 18" of 1/4" rod into the tool and it clamps onto the rear sprocket and you adjust the back wheel so that the 1/4" rod lies exactly the same as the chain. I think it was posted by somebody on this forum and can be found on this thingiverse of things place for 3 D prints.

TominOH... Been using your method I'm calling the "calibrated finger" method of alignment... it goes well with my "calibrated eye" method. I honestly think it's more accurate that my measuing tape method because getting the measuring tape in there past everything is difficult.

JFOliver... I also have the chain alignment tool you describe in my cart on amazon. It's cheap and would validate my "calibrated finger/eye" method.

I didn't replace the chain because of the low miles... and my cheapness. Any recommendations on a 428 o-ring chain... or is the o-ring overkill for these bikes?

Just bought the alignment tool on Amazon. Didn't know these even existed. Did it the old way with every motorcycle I've owned, over two dozen.

https://www.amazon.com/Chain-Alignme...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

BTW not planning to move to Ohio any time soon.....:lol:

Here's a slightly better quality. It has metal locking screw instead of plastic.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086QNR2JX...v_ov_lig_dp_it

So my alignment tool came, with plastic screws as you said. Went down to Ace Hardware, 1/2 mile away, and splurged $2 on two SS metric cap screws that take a hex wrench.

Hey! Check out this slack setter. More of a nice-to-have than a need-to-have.
https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-Te...77ZYZH3P&psc=1

Another way to align the chain is to raise the bike, turn the wheel a couple revolutions, then look closely through the chain at the back of the sprocket. The clearance between the inside of the chain plates and the sprocket teeth should be equal on both sides. The bike should be level when using this method.