I am back on a Chinese bike
 

I had a Brozz until this Winter, when it was stolen. I had it locked up in the pole barn out at my farm to store it for winter. I have a Suzuki Savage, and a small Yamaha Virago xv250, which are both useful bikes, but missed backroading, so when a 2021 TBR7D showed up on marketplace, for $1,500 , and was already titled. I responded. It was a little further than I wanted to go for one though, so I tried to forget it, and then they guy messages me, and offered it to me for $1,300, and I was wanting it (assuming it was as good as advertised). I told him that it was a little far, but he offered to meet me halfway, so I agreed. We met at the old abandoned truck stop at Mineral Wells. I was pleased, and he seemed trust worthy, and I bought it. He had already rejected the carb, and had 39/17 sprockets, which for my weight, and intended use will not be ideal. He gave me the old sprockets, which I think are 46/15, and I have a 47 rear, and a 16, and 17 front from when I had my Brozz. I have it road legal, and have ran it around some. It runs good,but is definitely a step behind the Brozz. I must say the choke on the handlebar is nice. He changed the oil, and used Valvoline motorcycle oil, but used 10-40. Is this too thin? I have 20-50 MC on hand, and probably enough Rottella 15-40 to change it. It has a gold chain ,but he said it was on it when he bought it new . Would this be an O ring, or X Ring?, And is it decent enough to run, or should it be replaced? This bike is a TBR7D, and I understand that it should have a USB port, folding shifter, and the choke on the handlebar, but this doesn't have the shifter, or the USB, just the choke. I think it's still a good deal though.. Another thing. I was going to replace the rear sprocket studs on my Brozz with Honda studs, but someone on this form said that it wasn't a problem for the Brozz, and was mainly trouble on the Hawks.. Are the studs trouble on thevTBR7? Thanks

Awesome to hear you got yourself another dual Sport. I think 10W40 is a little light for Summer time use in a push rod CG motor. Rotella T 15W40 was awesome and still is in my Old Brozz. As far as the chain I would run it until I ran out of adjustment to keep the slack in spec. Then I would Change it.

I'm glad you got back on a bike! Sorry about the Brozz. My son has the 2021 TBR7D. It was a late year build date and had some manufacturing issues, but it runs fine after all of our fixes and mods!

https://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=30524

It does not have any USB port and the shifter (not a folding tip) is a long fixed piece that sticks way out and catches weeds and stuff. We bent it so that it is at least tucked in closer to the engine.

Does your carburetor have an adjustable idle (slide height)??
The one on ours barely elevates the idle. Jerry suggested shaving down the stem that the screw fits into so that it can be set deeper. It is the right fix but until it gets cold, not needed;)

I don't know about the idle screw, because the bike idles fine. I will check. I forgot that the bike does have a way better headlight than my Brozz had, and it does have the skid plate, but it didn't have everything that I thought a D model TBR7 was supposed to have. The guy I got it from was very nice, and honest, and even the Ohio State title had it as TBR7D. I don't know why it didn't have the handguards on it. He may have never put them on. I know he was telling the truth about rejetting the bike, because the screws are slotted, and it runs very well. I never had my Brozz geared any higher than a 42/17, and this bike seems about the same powerwise with it's 39/17. The guy I got it from was probably around 160 lbs, and I am around 250, so I will probably gear it back down some . If I knew the chain would not rub the swing arm ,I would just put a 15 on the front, and run it with the 39.

This is what I am talking about. The pin on the slide height adjustment screw (idle) isn't long enough on my son's TBR7. It makes a barely perceptable change when it is warm, and no change when it is cold. I need a longer pin at the end of the adjuster screw... OR as Jerry suggested, I can remove the screw, and file the post that the screw mounts into so that the head seats lower. It is a good idea, and I know it will work. Of course, I will want to make sure the aluminum shavings DON'T go into the carb. No problem. I am sure even a 1-2mm shave will be effective. The pin would lift the slide by a mm or two for cold running.

But the weather is HOT here in Kansas City. The thing starts up instantly and idles fine. This is a COLD weather issue!!!

https://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=30763

My idle screw looks like yours. It has about enough space between the screw head,and the carb to get a thumb nail in. I didn't start it back up, but I turned it in a little, and back out to were it was. I assume it will raise the idle, but mine is idling fine in this hot weather.

It sounds like you have the same setup. If so, it won't work when it gets cold (idle too low). I will shave the post this Fall, and post pics and results. Meanwhile, it is Summer, so forget about it:tup:

10w40 is fine, that's what was spec'd for the Hondas with CG250 engines and is still fine now. In fact, new Hondas spec 10w30 and a lot of new cars with turbos and direct injection spec 0w20. I run 10w40 in my 1700cc Nomad. Save your 20w50 for your Harley or to grease an old wagon wheel.

I'll probably use 20-50 here in West Africa, if I can find it, otherwise I'll probably use the ubiquitous 15-40 semi-synthetic. 20-50 is overkill unless it's a Harley or you're in the hottest regions of the US, but like the poster above said, Honda specs everything 10-30 in the US.