The Ragged Bolens
 

So I was doing the ol' searching the online listings on gumtree/marketplace/craigslst etc.

And I found this clapped out Bolens ride on lawn mower...Apparently it ran...

Well I thought to myself "I recon i could do something with that"

It was 30min away....

And most importantly...it was $10 dollarydoos.

For that price I was willing to risk a tetanus shot.

Strip back all the rusted, clapped out jank and somewhere in there is a engine, 5speed trans with reverse, 4 wheels and a steering column.

For $10 I could do with a small victory to compensate for the pooched 81 xl185 that burned a hole in my pocket.

Anyway, always wanted to have a yard/gokart considering the cost I don't think I lost anything. has to be worth $11 in scrap :)

Good score. Port Washington isn't too far from where I grew up.

Looks Promising
 

Getting all the shmutz removed.

No lack of rust but the rear Chassis is in surprisingly reasonable condition.

Had to bust out the imperial socket set.

The engine seems in great shape..valves move..piston moves no slop.

The Ignition coil was munted. and the studs/bolts holding it on were rusted to nubs. One of them twisted off in the block mount....Going to have to be delicate getting it some how out without snapping the post.

Seeing if the battery now holds charge.

Well I ordered a modern spark coil to replace the old points coil. I'm in another $15 lads...

But going by the engine it should run.

The carb is a pretty basic unit so i should be able to clean it out and get it running on fresh gas.

From what info I can Find this model was made between 1982-1984

http://www.tractordata.com/lawn-trac...lens-1134.html

Have fun.
Bolens/FMC had their paws in lots of stuff. I've had two of their mowers. My Dad had a 3 cyl Bolens snowmobile in the late 60s. If my memory serves, they also slapped their name on a line of outboard motors.

Briggs had such a deep product line that you really need the model number and type to order parts. The serial number is just a date code/numerical sequence.

That tractor Data shows it uses a Briggs & Stratton 252707.

I hope to not buy any internals. the coil replacement is just a chinese ebay 'universal' replacment.

Vertical shaft engines are a dime a dozen. But flathead Brigs are somewhat nostalgic.

Any period correct parts will be costly.

Probaly be putting a motorcycle carby on it for throttle return. Though might keep the governor installed for longevity.

I hope to be ripping grass not mowing it.

So here's the breakdown,

25 is displacement in cubic inches, so 25ci.

2 is basic design series(flat head).

7 is vertical shaft, Flo-jet carb, pneumatic or mechanical governor.

0 is plain bearing/DU Non flange mount(DU is ringing no bells but the sun isn't up yet)

7 is 12 volt starter with alternator, so you can run lights.

The next group of numbers is the Type. It designates any special features like carb jetting and such.

The last group of numbers are known as the Code.

The first two numbers are the year.
Next two are the month.
Next two are the day.
Last two are the factory.

You can go to briggsandstratton.com to download most engine manuals gratis. I got the parts book and owners manual for the Bronda engine there. I had to do some hunting for the Service/Repair manual but found that online as a free download, too. I scored a hard copy of the service manual on eBay.

Just did an eBay search of Briggs & Stratton 252707...

I think my $10 was well spent.

Seems to hold value in the USA not much going for it in Australia...but I feel good about my purchase so far.

If you weren't such a bloody long way away, I'd give you the Toro 910 sitting behind my garage. It was a one year only beastie. The one shown here, http://www.tractordata.com/lawn-trac...-toro-910.html
is the very one parked behind my garage.

Already have a front engine Murray With a Tecumseh 17.5hp ohv for mowing duties.

The rear mounted engine on the Bolens was already a massive go kart hurdle engineering and effort wise.

Appreciate the Toro offer Cheesy but I'm sure you could get more than $10 USD for it.

So The starter motor works, fly wheel is missing 1 tooth and has marred up the starter engage cog...Still works though so just something to be mindful of.

Next issue was the coil stand off posts and the rusted in threads. First I tried a standard drill bit but it wandered off to much. next i tried a dremel with carbid bits but had similar issues, however I did use it to make a pilot dent.

What worked was using a stepped drill bit to get the bulk off the material out of the holes.

Then i just tapped them with whatever cut. 1 hole is m4/.7 the other is M5/.8

I only have a metric thread cutting kit.

Wasn't going to push my luck trying to make the threads match.

removed the bowl from the carb to find green gritty residue and the smell of varnish...

Nothing comlplex about it.. the float looked ok. So gave it a brush off and am now giving it the ultrasonic bath treatment.

I might try to unbolt the motor this afternoon, but if the bolts disagree it might just stay put.

Think i'll be shifting the Peerless transmission back closer to the engine for a better riding position...however the belt pulley that's attached to it might make that a less than easy choice.

Nah. I've offered it gratis to all the local collectors and no one wants it. I really consider it the Raleigh RSW 16 of riding mowers. Slow, cramped and uncomfortable.

Truth be told, I went from that to an 18hp Onan powered Bolens that was all hydraulic with a 60 inch deck, 4' snow plow and a 3' snow blower. Luxury.

Surely their is some kid in the neighborhood with initiative and entrepreneurship that would enjoy a kid sized lawn mower.
Collectors had their chance better it gets use than rots away behind a garage.

As for the Bolens, I am waiting for the coil to show up before I spend any more money on it. Cutting discs for the grinder, belts, pulleys and all that gubbins

Shifting Rust
 

To get a visualization of where this ratcart is going I used the last bit of 2 cutting discs to trim back the deck lift shroud and shifted it back to make the now going to be engine cover.

I made hex key from a bit that was to big and managed to remove the grub screw from the transmission input shaft pulley, But the thing didn't budge and where the circle spring clip should be was nothing...So it's going to be a cut away job...cant remove the transmission without moving the pulley...

Same can be said for the engine drive pulleys but I'll see if I can get away with using the 1 that's on it for now.

Steering column will take some work too, but there is material enough to make something work at better steering angle.

The tires surprisingly hold pressure...all are dry rotted 1 front tire needs to be replaced.

Carb is cleaned and reinstalled with a cereal box diy gasket and smear of rtv goop.

Probably should invest in a decent blow torch but seeing how far I can get with what I have.

The floorpan after the transmission to the font will all be removed and new chassis rails will be installed...but that all depends on the engine running...

You'd think that, but there are only six kids on my street and half of them are under three years of age. The two older boys are about 7 and have no interest in mechanical things. String bean, the tall and skinny 12 year old girl across the street, is a gymnast/cheerleader.

My two grandsons have no interest, either. I could probably sell the idea to one of my granddaughters but her Dad doesn't know which end of a screwdriver to hold and doesn't have a garage.

It's looking more like it will follow the worn out Troy-bilt tractor to the scrapper.