Hawk Exhaust Replacement
 

i would fit it first to make sure they look big enough to me.

there is also a copper gasket that you want to get. someoen will chime in with a link. about $3.00

You might need to get a little bracket extender for the muffler, but some people have got away with bending the pipe for it to fit. Be aware that if you do bend it, it can be in contact with the airbox.

The holes do need to be drilled out to 1/2". I would take the pipe in and have done. I did it myself and It was a pain.

yes the holes do need to be expanded out a bit, how much? well, thats going to depend on the sweat-shop that put the thing together. i would say between 1/4 to 1/2 a inch is about right.

one thing no one on here (that i've seen) will tell you is that these china "exhausts" are NOT a direct bolt on. mine required a LOT of tweaking to get it so it wasnt rubbing on the engine casing and the back support by the rear brake reservoir. oh and the air box. and believe me, stainless steel does not want to bend at all.

and lastly, if its touching the air box it well melt it (ask me how i know!) my solution was to cut off about 1 inch of the air box, fashion a piece of plastic to fill the gap and used JB Weld Plastic Epoxy to get it all back into shape (dont forget the can of flat black.) unfortunately i couldn't prevent the back piece from rubbing in the back, so to minimize the contact i put a U shape bracket in there so it has less surface to transfer heat and its been ok since then. oh and, heat wrap does NOTHING to prevent direct contact heat transfer other then slow it down a bit.

pictures attached. enjoy. (and the melted look is just my shoddy application of the epoxy, it hasn't melted at all)

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lF...I=w260-h346-nohttps://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Yp...c=w699-h932-no

Its a china bike nothing is a direct bolt on. :)

The studs on the engine are about 7mm and the holes in the flange need to be 1/2" for it to fit without cutting off the ends of the flange.

You can call me crazy but I was the first one to buy the RCH exhaust here. It was made for the Honda CRF150F and CRF230F. I took notes from the guys that were buying the stainless steel full exhaust and it led me to ebay to find something that was cheaper and cut weight. It does require mods to make it fit.

What makes this website great is people post what they have done and give other people ideas. :)

I did not have those issues except widening the the holes a 1/4 inch ,I guess the cheaper version is not an exact replica of the pro-circuit the t-4 I'v installed on mine.I used a cobalt drill bit to drill the holes.

I used condensed milk out of the can to cool the bit and lubricate it when drilling stainless steel. Don't let the drill bit get too hot. Once it starts to heat up, it means the lubricating qualities of the cassien in the milk has been used up. So dip it again. Also, don't forget to buy a copper o-ring for the head/pipe interface. Genuine Honda, please. Same o-ring as fits the CRF230F, and others....ARH

Dremel
 

Here's how I did the exhaust bracket mod on our CG motor.

On purpose or vision problems? 😀
So what makes milk better than oil?
I'm afraid to ask what you put in your coffee.....

The cassien in condensed milk with stands the heat of drilling better than dino oil. I'm sure by now they have much better hi temp oils than they had in the 1980's. I put half and half in my coffee. I never liked "canned cow" in my coffee....ARH

i was juggling whether to get new exhaust or de-cat the oem! tihs has made up my mind im going to de-cat the oem. im cheap like jerryhawk!