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-   -   skid plate - uh oh (http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=16669)

woodlandsprite 05-21-2016 03:07 PM

skid plate - uh oh
 
So. While I was doing my oil change today, I took the skidplate off and while doing so, the front mounting bracket also came off :ohno:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7622/...74945740f6.jpg

here you can see where it was mounted to the bike:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7706/...29e35f5f2f.jpg

I'm thinking my options are:
1) Leave the skidplate off
2) Find someone to weld the bracket back on
3) Grind off the other brakets and install the beefier skid plate

*sigh*

as for the oil change, it went smoothly, though with the center stand deployed, I could not get my oil pan exactly under the drain hole so I got oil all over the floor *again*.

The oil looked dark to me, and there was a fair bit of sludgy stuff on the drain plug, but didn't notice any sizeable chunks. Oil strainers looked pretty much clean of debris, there may have been one or two bits of not sure what on the oil strainers, but I was unable to identify what they were. This was only my 2nd oil change at 1000 miles but I'm hoping to churn through the next 1000 miles much faster now that I am more comfortable riding.

CSaddict 05-21-2016 03:14 PM

Replace it with the CSC aluminum skid. Half the work is already done! Click on my blog for install pics.

detours 05-21-2016 05:02 PM

I would just leave it off unless you intend to take it on any dirt. The aluminum skid plate is very nice and keeps the front of the engine clean, but it's overkill for most riders.

SpudRider 05-21-2016 05:53 PM

If you want to achieve clean oil changes, put the bike on the side stand, and don't get the CSC skid pate. ;)

BlackBike 05-21-2016 06:27 PM

Rx3 'ers, what is going on with the plate. Could a large access hole be drilled to accommodate a socket and also to allow the flow of oil through this hole . Thinking of , say a
1 1/4" to 1 1/2 " hole saw. I can't see what's going on when its mounted unless there is a frame causing issue, so just an idea.

BlackBike 05-21-2016 06:29 PM

Oh, OK I see the drain plug is not straight down but looking off to the side, got ya.

woodlandsprite 05-21-2016 07:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SpudRider (Post 217493)
If you want to achieve clean oil changes, put the bike on the side stand, and don't get the CSC skid pate. ;)

Ha! I think you mentioned the side stand last time also. Will note this in the maintenance sheet so I don't forget next time

woodlandsprite 05-21-2016 07:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by detours (Post 217469)
I would just leave it off unless you intend to take it on any dirt. The aluminum skid plate is very nice and keeps the front of the engine clean, but it's overkill for most riders.

I will probably leave it off for now but I intend to take the bike on dirt eventually

SpudRider 05-21-2016 08:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlackBike (Post 217498)
Rx3 'ers, what is going on with the plate. Could a large access hole be drilled to accommodate a socket and also to allow the flow of oil through this hole . Thinking of , say a
1 1/4" to 1 1/2 " hole saw. I can't see what's going on when its mounted unless there is a frame causing issue, so just an idea.

The messy oil changes are not caused by the oil flowing from the magnetic drain plug. The mess arises from the oil flowing out of the two oil screen plugs, and the oil filter cap. ;)

woodlandsprite 05-21-2016 08:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SpudRider (Post 217524)
The messy oil changes are not caused by the oil flowing from the magnetic drain plug. The mess arises from the oil flowing out of the two oil screen plugs, and the oil filter cap. ;)

in my case it was from the oil flowing from the magetic drain plug. the oil pan bumped into my center stand and the flow hit the edge of the pan. If I had shim'd the pan so it could get further under the drain hole, everything would have been fine. As soon as I saw it hit the edge I had some delay while I sat there astounded I munged it up again, but then grabbed the pan and lifted it up and it was able to catch the flow without hitting the lip. Hopefully that makes sense - it's because the centerstand slopes towards the front of the bike when deployed.

also Spud is correct that the oil screen plugs and oil filter cap will dump right into your skid plate ;)

pyoungbl 05-21-2016 09:02 PM

Woodlandsprite, if you get the CSC bash plate I'd recommend two mods before you mount it. The plate has a really tight fit on the upper right and along the right side. I'd cut some of that off:
https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycl...DSCF0113-M.jpg
You could even be more aggressive than my marks.
The second suggestion is on the left side I'd cut a hole to give access to the plug you need to remove in order to find TDC so you can set the valve lash. I discovered this after this photo was taken and I have yet to make this mod because my mill is dedicated to another project.

As for taking the plate off to change oil...I did not. The strainers will drop oil onto the plate and you will have a bit of mess but IMHO that's not a big deal. I installed a quick drain valve so dropping the oil is fairly painless and clean.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycl...DSCF0173-M.jpg
If you go this route make sure you get the 16mm version.

rtking 05-21-2016 09:36 PM

WoodlandSprite, an easy way to avoid getting oil all over the floor is to use some aluminum foil. Make the aluminum foil into a "V" channel so it will reach before the drain plug and into your oil collection container. (I usually fold Aluminum foil over twice so I have 4 layers... it's thicker/stronger that way.) Seems to work pretty well for me with a minimum of mess. My wife isn't so keen as I used up the last of the aluminum foil the last oil change. :hehe:

As for the skid plate... I'd leave it off for now until you can take your bike to a muffler shop. They should be able to tack weld that back on for a few bucks - maybe $5-10, if that. Or you could use a couple of stainless steel radiator clamps to hold the bracket in its original position as a temporary fix and then re-attach the skid plate.

Juanro 05-21-2016 10:34 PM

My skid plate front mount broke twice. First it died of natural causes, as yours. I welded it ( a crappy job, I admit ) and the going over a trail I hit a large rock and it broke again. I fixed it on the spot using a rubber piece (from an old inner tube) and some zip ties. Results we're better than expected, in fact I noted a reduction in noise, some metallic tingle was now gone, so I leave it like that.

woodlandsprite 05-21-2016 11:11 PM

Rtking thanks for both tips. As I was watching it spill on the floor, my brain was trying to decide if I had anything nearby to redirect the flow :) also thanks for the radiator clamp suggestion and the direction towards a muffler shop. I had no idea where to potentially take it for a re-weld.

Juanro: I had contemplated zip ties also. Do you have a photo of your repair?

Pyoungbl: thank you for your suggestions! I haven't access to a grinder, but if I decide to upgrade in the future, I will be sure to reference your suggestions!

SpudRider 05-22-2016 03:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pyoungbl (Post 217537)
...The second suggestion is on the left side I'd cut a hole to give access to the plug you need to remove in order to find TDC so you can set the valve lash. I discovered this after this photo was taken and I have yet to make this mod because my mill is dedicated to another project...

The easiest and most foolproof method of setting the piston at TDC on the compression stroke is to align the marks on the cam sprocket with the inspection holes on the rocker cover. :tup: Using this method you don't need to lie on the ground, and you are always assured of having the piston set for the compression stroke.

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...pskghfuotu.jpg

I never use the inspection hole on the stator cover any more. ;) If you use the inspection ports on the rocker cover, you don't need to modify the CSC skid plate on the left side.


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