Motorcycle Oil vs Automotive Oil
 

It seems to be marketing hype is the reason why motorcycle oils costs more than their automotive counterparts. Read the article in the link that scientifically proves that there is no difference in oil performance for both types. I will be switching to Mobil 1 for my next oil change..


http://www.ducatimeccanica.com/oil.html

I thought motorcycle oil was because of the wet clutch. Auto oils make the clutches slip. That is what I have been told and experienced.

I don't know.... I've heard so much different crap about this it's mind boggling. Friction modifiers, high heat air cooled engines, etc....etc...

I can tell you from my own experience from a lifetime of riding and owning a boatload of different motorcycles, many roached basket cases, that when I was a kid, I dumped in whatever dad had on the shelf. No clutch slippage. Ran fine.

I've always TRIED to buy motorcycle oil but I can also say that our last two Victory's that are MAJOR torque monsters.....I've run regular Mobil 1 in them on occasion and no clutch slippage. Ran fine. I've never had any of my bikes ever slip a clutch due to the oil.

I know, I know, all the "specs and stats" that say you shouldn't run anything BUT motorcycle oil in a wet clutch/high temp air cooled, etc..etc... and all of that, but my personal experience hasn't rang that true. That said, I still try to run motorcycle oil whenever possible.

Brands are no concern other than individual proformance claims. Look for JASO CERTIFICATION . All else is preference. End monthly oil thread.:doh:

Just make sure the oil does not have any friction modifiers. Most 5W and many 10W oils are marketed to improve gas mileage...they have friction modifiers. One automobile/truck oil that is OK is Rotella T full synthetic. You can buy it by the gallon from WalMart or most auto parts stores. Wet clutches do not like oil with friction modifiers since the clutch plates themselves rely on friction to work.

It's not all 'hype'... You will have to be careful on the "Additive Package" of the 'auto oil' you choose (some will work... most wont get along with any Wet Clutch/Shifting your motorcycle), I would still look for an oil that is made for "Wet Clutch" use (Jaso MA2 approved... stay away from JASO T904-MB labeled oil... it's not wet clutch approved)

"These standards, especially JASO-MA (for motorcycles) and JASO-FC, are designed to address oil-requirement issues not addressed by the API service categories. One element of the JASO-MA standard is a friction test designed to determine suitability for wet clutch usage."

I like Rotella T6 5w40... only costs me $16.30 shipped to my door with Amazon Subscribe and Save, it's Jaso MA approved too ;)

I ran auto oil in an 01 vulcan classic I had. never had any issues with it. however, I decided rather than put myself through concerns/worry/wondering, etc, I just decided that it wasn't that much of an investment to run synth MC oil. Heck, the hawk only uses about a quart at oil change. what's 10 bucks to feel comfortable with what you use? my clutch/oil actually seems to be running better (cooler) based on how my clutch was grabbing when in hot stop/go traffic. Now that I'm using synth, never a problem. I'm only around 800 miles on the hawk so far, but it seems to be settling in very nicely. by that, I mean I run the pi$$ out of it and it doesn't break. :lmao::D

Spud used 15W40 diesel oil in his Zong for over 60,000 miles. Hard to argue with those results.

I myself have put the wrong Rotella in my Lifan 200 by mistake. Took about 5 miles before the clutch started slipping. Rotella T-5 and T-6 work fine but the regular automotive Rotella doesn't work with a wet clutch.

Rotella 15W40 has worked well for me. All of my wet-clutch machines drink it.

Don't use 'Energy Conserving' and all else is good.
All that matters is get the viscosity in the ballpark and change it.

If cost is no matter and you feel better spend as much as you like on synthetic. If it matters in the real world who knows but I confess to running synthetic in my bikes (XR100's and HD excepted) but I suspect any advantage is psychologic.

With that said the owner's manuals of the Gold Wing, Ducati, Royal Enfield, and DRZ400S all spec synthetic, so I go by that.

He's up to 75,000 now, although the last 5,000 on the repalcement motor!

I used Rotella T6 5w40 for nearly 50,000 miles in a Triumph Tiger 1050 with no issues, that bike never even needed the shims changed for the valve clearance.

I've got T6 in my RX3 right now and it's working fine. The 20w50 does seem to shift a tiny bit better but nothing huge. I'd use the 20w50 or what spud uses if your operating in the summer. For colder temps I'll stick with the Rotella.


I think it's far more important to change your oil regularly with a wet clutch then worry about what oil your using. Motorcycles are harder on oil than cars by far. I'm comfortable with my MG Stelvio's 6000 mile intervals because it's only for the engine, the transmission uses it's own oil.

My Tiger 1050 spec'd 5000 mile changes but oil analysis showed the oil was degraded by 3000, I just changed it at 2500 based on that.

Whoh, 50g, that some serious seat time:tup:

Liquid what???
 

I recently noticed some oils are now proclaiming they have a Liquid Titanium additive.

Yeah,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, that makes perfect sense. Just as much as when some shaving razors called their product Turbo.