Question about monoshock
 

Hi have a question, the monoshock of klr 650 can i use on my zongshen rx3?, have the same lenght.

Interesting thought. Would open up a lot of available shocks for the RX3. Things to check.
1) the same spring diameter to fit in where the original one was and is it stiffer/softer spring
2) mounting bolt holes same diameter or will you need bushings

My brother has a KLR and I looked at his original shock and ended up not using it on RX3 for some reason I can't remember. Maybe was to hard to get it to work or just didn't fit at all ??????
you could probably get one cheaply on Ebay and try it? rj

Since there are so many more options with KLR shocks that would be a fantastic option. The KLR is a heavier bike. I'm not sure what the shock stroke is for the KLR (or the RX3) and since the suspension links are probably unique this whole train of thought is mostly hope. You need to do some careful measurements of both the shocks with springs but also the range of motion required for each. I suspect you will find that the KLR shock has much more range of motion, which will translate into the RX3 rear wheel banging into the fender on full compression. If anyone wants to tear into a comparison I have a stock RX3 shock to donate to the cause.

Peter Y.

There is the most critical issue. Since many have gone to a knobby and had it abuse the air filter box, the compressed length is the first consideration, followed by extended length, and finally spring rate.

A redesign of the airbox to give clearance down under would be a very good thing. Second possibility would be lengthen the swing arm 1"/25 mm.

The rear knobby hits my airbox especially with Lowering Link. Much better with preload cranked down and side cases/rear crash bar combo removed(22.5 lbs less). I'm at 150 lbs. in full gear.
I like your suggestions Jay. I just try and ride easy, I do forget in the mountains sometimes. I may re'install OEM link?
I really like the Kenda big blocks though, and CSC did warn me because of the lowering link install.

Mine rubs bad with the standard link on bumps...even on the road, progressive 465 cranked down, and Shinko 805 130/80-17. I ended up taking a piece of sheet steel, formed it to the shape of the underside of the fender and used gorilla glue to hold it in place.

Joe

i'm gonna try that sheet metal. steel or aluminum stove pipe OK?

Cool. I put two different pieces under the fender well. One is a rectangle to prevent the rubbing of the main portion of the plastic cover that is actually in front of the airbox. The second was a piece that bent around the thumb sized plastic piece under there with the screw in it hold the two pieces together. It was also hitting there. While you are under there messing with stuff you might think of pulling back that cover piece and then putting RTV as calking between the two halves of the airbox. Due to the bottoming out it seems that it pushed the airbox enough that is separated the two halves and let in water on a rainy ride. Bad enough that it killed the engine. Had to keep draining it every 50 miles. Now that I have the RTV between the two halves it's fine.

Joe

outstanding advise fj. will attempt that on mine too.
sorry to hear you've moved on but think you've made good choice. my other bike has always been an F BMW. first a 650 now on my 2nd f800. tough engines, very reliable!

That's great to hear on the F800s you've had. Hoping mine will also be as good.

Take care!

Joe