Hawk Fuel Gauge Problem?
 

Basically, my hawk's fuel gauge won't work or seems to be stuck. How could i repair this? Also the bike only seems to go 50 mp/h max speed, would the 17t front sprocket and aftermarket carburetor make it gain atleast 10 mp/h more?

Sometimes my fuel gauge seems to get stuck I just shake the bike and that seems to fix it. It's not super accurate anyways kind of like a gm gauge stays high for a long time then acts erratically below 1/2 tank. As far as top speed those should make a difference a lot depends on your weight I have a carb and 17 tooth and can go 60 but I weigh 265 so I think that's what stops me. On that note the stock knobbies are really squirrelly above 55 I almost never try to go above that because it's unsettling.

Maybe trying a fuel system cleaner with an upper cylinder lube will fix the issue? It has worked a few times on a few cars I have owned over the years. Sometimes the sliding parts get a little sticky or gummed up and won't float, a few tank fulls of a proper fuel cleaner/lube and problem is solved.

*Renewable Lubricants Bio-Plus is great at cleaning and lubing fuel system parts

*Schaeffers 131 Neutra is also amazing at cleaning and lubing fuel/hydraulic/engines/transmissions/etc. Works on cleaning "Wet Clutch Engine/Transmissions" that most Motorcycles have too :tup:

*Biobor is a little expensive but has worked every time I used it.

*Star-Tron is some good stuff

*Sta-Bil Marine is some good stuff

*Penray makes some really good products for a decent price. Every Penray product has worked as advertised :)

Lucas UCL has helped a few times in the past, not as fast as others at cleaning carbon deposits but works great with sticky/gummed up parts.

BG44k is really expensive but has worked the few times I used it.

Gumout Regane/All In One has worked great the times I used it.

MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil) is known to clean sticky carbs and fuel sending units over the last (almost) hundred or so years.

Sea Foam? I never had it work for me personally (on my personal vehicles, I tried a Top Cylinder Cleaning, aka "Smoke Show", cleaned no carbon from my pistons or Intake plenum), but I revived a customers old 90's Suburban that was having "Fuel Starvation Issues", someone in their family recommended Sea Foam but they didn't know how to use it with a car that would run... I made $40 to pour a can of Sea Foam in their tank of gas, tow it to the Gas Station fill it with premium "Top Tear"... the next day I got a call saying the Suburban started and if I needed more $ for the work:yay: I laughed and said "no" as I already made $40 basically doing nothing but a tow half a block up the road and back to get gas on their dime :crazy:

Anyways, I have a huge list of fuel system cleaners I have used over the years I was wrenching on cars for a living... some customers would ask I use specific brand/items and every time I would try and find out if they worked or not (scoped parts for spray patterns and also any carbon before/after use). Most worked, but some took several tanks of fuel to start cleaning. The ones I listed above are easily found and work the best for the $ paid; they are listed in no particular order :) but I found the ones with * are about the best you can get for the $ and Dilution options :)

I have tried almost everything from 3M to WYNNS branded fuel injection system/carb cleaners over the last 25 years of wrenching on things with my pops

Make sure you have a FULL tank of gas. My gauges would not register until I filled the tank.

Same here. Thought fuel gauge was busted till I completely filled the tank. Been working ever since. As for speed, my bro's bike a 16 t can do indicated 60 mph w quite a bit of throttle left. Probably round 55 -57 mph actual .

Mine pretty much hasn't worked since day 0.75. Even though the speedo broke and just spins round and round i think it still clocks pretty good mileage. I run 93 octane and go about 160 miles before i start looking for a gas station. You can also just look in the tank.

Bought a twin pack of hawks. One gauge don't work at all, The other gues to empty with the key off and full with the key on. Used a stick to push the float down and it still reads full. Any ideas?

What all goes from the gas tank/fuel gauge to the instrument cluster/fuel gauge? Any ground wires or any other connectors loose on the bike by chance?

confession
 

So i read this thread last night and guess i am predisposed to think of chinese manufactured products as being idiosyncratic, prone to failure etc....

I started my hawk this chilly morning and while it was warming up i noticed that sadly my fuel gauge had ceased functioning. Oh well helmet on and take off to work. About 3rd intersection the bike sputters and stalls... hit the starter...fires up and sputters again... you guessed it ...my fuel gauge is fine as is the reserve on the petcock....my brain on the otherhand needs an overhaul. As an aside odometer read 211 miles on my first tank of gas.

Yep, sometimes it's the rider that requires adjustment.

I thought my gauge was stuck on empty but I hadn't filled up the tank completely. After topping it off the needle moved. Time will tell if it is accurate.

Has anyone experienced a positive improvement with the digital gauges that matt's selling? Do y'all use 93 or regular in your bikes??

Love the new cluster from Matt. Accurate speedo, gear indicator...couldn't be happier! Use reg gas....

Yes, my stock fuel gauge didn't even work. I did end up tweaking the sending unit so that the digital gauge didn't read empty when I was just barely under 1/2 tank. If you don't bend the wire to the float some, it isn't floating even though the tank still has a lot of fuel in it.

Mine shows empty at 1/2 tank. How do I bend the wire? from inside the tank or remove the tank?