Giov 110cc Mini Beast Back Axel Problems
 

I am having alot of problems with my 110cc mini beast back axel. I finally got time to fix it but now I am frustrated with the back axel, I do not know how to fix it. The rotor is not moving straight, it wobles around a little. Also the chain makes funny sounds.

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/m...o/IMG_0270.jpg

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/m...o/IMG_0267.jpg

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/m...o/IMG_0262.jpg

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/m...o/IMG_0261.jpg

Yozalo, when you say you "got time to fix it", does that mean you changed the bearings in the rear end? That might account for the rotor wobble.

Also, it appears that the chain is not tracking straight (that would be the source of the funny sound). It is very important to make sure that the front and rear sprockets are in line, and that chain tension is correct. Finally, you must have cotter pins in the castle nuts that hold the wheel hubs on; Princess Auto sells containers of assorted cotter pins for cheap.

Something looks odd with the right side chain adjuster. Are you sure that it's on correctly?

TurboT, do you have a photo you could post for comparison?

I have some pictures I can post when I get home.. however by the look of the wheel nut it is too far in, it is not spaced correctly. I think you are either missing something there or need more washers so the cotter pin Weldandgrind mentioned is through the castlated nut. Mine is in too far as well but not that bad.

I just bought this 110cc and it came broken with some problems. John sent some parts and I got some time to fix it. Also the chain side of the back axel came with a bushing but when I put it in the back axel would not align. It would be too small on the other side so I had to remove it. The problem is that the chain does not align so I need to fix that but I do not know how. The only way I see it is to put the busing in but if I do the other side it is too short. I am not sure about the rotor wobble. Also what is the chain adjuster if so could you take the picture and put a circle around it so I know where it is. Sorry, but I am new to fixing these machines, I have a little knowledge but not as much as you guys.

I already know that I need a cotter pin but I removed it to take pictures. Thanks for reminding me though. I learned my lesson last time by not putting in a cotter pin. Last time my wheel was just about to come off but luckily I noticed it.

Yazolo,

The chain adjustment is done with the screws on the bottom middle of the axel. It appears in your picture they are way out. They should be even on both sides.. ie, when you need to tighten the chain you would turn them evenly as to not tip it either way.

You need to loosen the bolts on the side, then straighten the two adjustment screws located on the bottom until they are even and check to see if in runs true. Once you have the chain running true, then tighten them in evenly to set your chain tension.

I'm not up to speed on 'exact terms' of this.. but let me know if you understand what I'm meaning and if not I will try to re-explain... I don't have a way to circle pictures here.

There is a picture of my back axel in this thread.
http://www.chinariders.net/modules.p...=7984&start=15

You will see the adjustments screws are a little more even. The chain guard is still on but you will see what we are meaning.

Yes, I see that. Yours are very aligned. The problem is that my chain is not going straight. Will the chain tension help it. Also thi might be a stupid question but did you use the giovanni wrench or did you use your own. The one that came with the atv is very shit quality and I'll have to go to home depot to buy some wrenches.

If you align the axel and keep those adjustments screws in line, it will straigten the chain some too, as well as your brake rotor.

If your axel is not in 'plain', it will throw everything off. Get the chain running true and your rotor problem probably fixes as well.

Loosen up the bolts, and get the chain running true, then worry about the tension on the chain by adjusting them evenly after that. Just loosen it first don't try to align it if it is too tight.

Mate I have my own tools, the Gio wrenches are horrible. A good set of sockets, screw drivers and wrenches is a must have if you're going to do any mechanical work. I spent 13 years in an engine shop and own Mac and Snap On from those years. However, crapsman or motomasters will do you just fine.

Yep, I will try that mate. I will buy a wrench set tomorrow. I'm more of those computer guys, not those grease monkey garage working ones. Lol. Anyways, I will report back.

Hey chap no worries really you only learn by doing. When I was your age I didn't know the difference between a nut and a bolt. \

Hmmm....I don't really know how the chain adjuster will fix the chain alignment but I will try it. I am not really certain it will work. Also can you tell me if you put the bushing in the side of the chain sprocket. If I put the bushing in, one side would be too short. Right now, I did not put the bushing in on the chain side of the axel but the other side has the bushing in. The axel is perfectly aligned without the bushing but the chain is not straight.

I'm not sure which bushing you are meaning here..

There does seem to be some sort of spacer between the lower spring arm and the sprocket on mine, which doesn't show up well on yours. This would move the sprocket location more in alignment with the drive/front sprocket. Please note I did not remove the axel at all. It came the way you see in the pictures, and I just installed the spacer tubes and the wheels. Yours came broken which has caused you this grief.

The reason we are mentionin the chain adjustment is if one side is further in than the other, in the case of yours in the pictures, the right rear wheel will pull closer to the front wheel, and the left rear will pull away from the front. This would tip your axel and cause the chain to be out of alignment. However it does look like you may need something there to push the sprocket over more, perhaps this bushing you're talking about.

A good indicator here is also the amount of thread exposed beyond your wheel nut. In a perfect world the end of that nut should just cover the last threads, so when you put the cotter pin in, it rests inside the slots to stop it from loosening. It looks like you have a good 1/4 - 1/2inch of thread exposed. If you have a spacer/bushing you think needs to go in, it would make up the difference you have there and will probably align your sprockets better.

Here is a picture of the bushing so you know what I am talk about:

http://www.69vetteman.com/images/full/sb_bushing.jpg

yozalo and TurboT,

Is it me, or is the right chain adjuster bent on Yozalo's quad? Check out these photos:
http://i566.photobucket.com/albums/s...o/HPIM0125.jpg
http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/m...o/IMG_0261.jpg

That would certainly account for the difficulty in adjusting the chain. Yozalo, see if the right side chain adjuster can be bent (gently) back into place. Once that's done, you should be able to adjust the chain properly. It is most important to have the front and rear sprockets in line so that the chain will track smoothly. After that, we'll concentrate on proper chain tension.

Cheers!