will not start
 

My other ATV is a Kasea Skyhawk 250 that will not start I have replaced the cdi coils and spark plugs still nothing the only thing left is the stater do I need a special tool for this? Like to rebuild both of my carbs for it too the they are Keihin carbs PTG some know where I can get a kit for them.

Do you have spark?

No it does not has new coils and a cdi too.

You need to put a meter on your stator to see if its outputting power and a signal to your CDI.

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This what I did the plugs and carbs took one of the coils off took my meter on the ends of the ends that went into the coil put the meter on ac/volts 200k and turned it over didn't read anything so thinking its the stater am I right?

No. The stator might still be putting out the required voltage, but it won't get to the coil if there's a switch problem in the way. BTW, I think the coil runs on 12VDC.

If one of the brake switches isn't closed (they're in parallel), then there will be no power to the solenoid. If the kill switch isn't closed, there will be no power to the coil.

Does the engine turn over?

Yes it does turn over someone said something to me today they asked if it had a remote start I didn't know if there was one. Did they come with one in that year?

I really doubt it.

Do you have a kill switch on the left handlebar that slides both left and right?

Yes I do

Press the switch in. Not kidding. That has fooled many of us.

The switch was originally designed as a turn signal switch, and when you slide the switch either left or right, it will spring back to center but remain active. In your case, it will remain killed, which means it will crank with no spark.

Pressing the button in once stops the turns signals, or in your case, stops the kill function. It's that simple.

You got to be kidding me really I will have to see after I put the carbs back on I can test it with out them on to?

You can. Just pull the plug, pop it into the cap, hold it against the head and hit the starter. Let us know if sparks occur, resulting in much joy.

Thanks for the I'm hoping that is it might be a couple days till I get to it working 12s just asking are you a welder ?

Not a real welder, just a goofball in my spare time.

Well that didn't work I thought and was hoping that I had that switch but I don't here are few pictures of my switch. Is there a way to test the kill switch and here are a few picture's of my Carbs there are 2 of them trying to get a rebuild kit for them but no luck so far. AJ parts has them but no rebuild kits just carbs don't have the money for 2 they are 129.00 a each. So any one know of what I can use instead of them there Keihin to.



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More pictures of carb

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You can test the switch with a multimeter. Figure out which wires come from the kill switch, unplug them and set the multimeter to continuity testing. Here's the odd part: when you turn the kill switch off, the meter should show continuity. When you turn the switch off, the circuit will be open. Confusing, until you understand why.

You're not likely to need rebuild kits for the carbs. Take many pics as you go, and dismantle them. Use an aerosol carb cleaner (like from Walmart) and an old toothbrush. Clean every area inside and outside the carb, and remove the two jets for cleaning. I suspect that the slow jet is partially clogged, so it'll need to be cleared. I've used a single strand from a wire brush with good success.

You might be able to use Mikuni carbs in place, but that depends on the throttle cable setup. For now, focus on cleaning your carbs.

looks like the kill switch is working. So I think I will clean the carbs and put them back on see what happens . What about the gaskets on the carbs? I do need a fuel tank for my HI Bird 250 know and who has one? And thanks for the help.

I'm guessing that you still don't have spark.

Has the wiring harness been tampered with at all?

I'd try eBay for a fuel tank. The carb gaskets should be reusable; I always put a light film of grease on them.

I have been trying on ebay for the tank but its not happing the tank has the mounting in the middle and it drops down from where the gas cap is at. As for the harness its looks like its never been touched at all.

Do you also have a key switch?

Yes I do its a brand new one. The other day I unplugged 2 wires from the stator and checked that no ac when turned on but when I turned it over it went up to 62.4 a/c volts

You should also have a signal wire coming from your stator. This wire signals the cdi on every revolution and tells the cdi when to fire the coil and spark plug. I rewired my new bike as we are all instructed to do during initial assembly. It wouldn't start and I couldn't figure it out. I finally started messing with all my new terminal connections and I pulled on one and the wire came right out. I either forgot to strip the insulation from the wire or when I crimped it I cut right through the wire. Either way when I redid the connection the bike fired right up.


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I had a key switch fail, so I bought a new one. My switch has four wires, and they disappear into a plastic boot. The new switch had the same four colours.

After a week of troubleshooting a no-start condition, I went back to the key switch. It turns out that the wire colours on the new switch actually go to different contact points than the old switch! :grr:

I ended up peeling back the boot on the old switch, and that revealed a wire that had come away from a terminal. I soldered it back on, started the engine and called it a win.

The moral: don't assume that your new switch is correct, even though it may appear to be. Do you have the old switch for testing purposes?

After trying all of the typical troubleshooting steps, the last remaining option is to dismantle the harness and examine each connector. A nuisance, but sometimes necessary.

I think before I do that I'm going to try this weekend and check the timing because it a twin cylinders and see if it's okay.

I forgot about it being a twin. Nevertheless, even if the timing was out, you'd still get spark. I'm stuck on the no-spark issue.

Let me tell you so am I

been working on Yamaha atv and the HI Bird fixed the gas tank with sealer should fix it . I changed the oil in the HI Bird 250 on the other side of the motor are two plugs one on top the other on the bottom and one know what they are for ? Would they be for the trans if so what oil do I use ?

Thanks

The cap is the first pic will reveal the cleanable oil filter and spring. Just clean the filter with a blast of WD-40, and make sure there are no holes. When you reinstall it, the rubber end of the filter goes in first, followed by the spring and then the cap.

The caps in the second pic are for turning the crankshaft for setting the valves. The large cap on the vertical surface reveals the nut that you turn, and the top cap on the horizontal surface reveals the marks on the flywheel.

The engine and transmission share the same oil; this is referred to as a unit motor. When you add oil through the dipstick hole, it flows to the transmission and the engine.

BTW, the cap on the vertical surface is the large oval chrome cap that is secured by four screws. When you're ready to try adjusting the valves, let us know.

Weldangrind you came through again thank you. I used the very bottom plug to change the oil didn't know about that one big nut has a oil screen in it. Can I clean it and not loose any of the new oil I put in it? And would anyone know where I can get a manual for this thing?

thanks

http://youtu.be/lyhfqa3QP5k
Remove centrifugal oil filter / swap clutch plates etc NEEDS this http://www.ebay.com/itm/151294063048 (Better prepared b4 too late | 20mm for horizontal Honda & clone | 24mm for vertical Honda & clone) tool
http://youtu.be/LnPktdVsIyU[/youtube]
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Based on Honda CG125. http://josemaco.files.wordpress.com/...h-62ktjam5.pdf

Thanks HB!

The short answer to your question is no; you can't remove the screen and not lose oil. As a point of trivia, the Honda XR200 that has a very similar bottom end lacks a drain plug under the motor like yours has. The only way to drain an XR200 is by the filter hole.

I thought I read somewhere about leaning the bike way over down on its side (gently and protected of course) and then you can remove and clean the screen without loosing any oil.


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Perhaps. I've never tried that, since I've always been changing the oil anyway. Oil is cheap, and it's only a litre.

I will give it a try this weekend and see if that will work thanks .

Well been working on 3 atv's have all 3 running now found out what was bad with the kasea Skyhawk 250 found a article about no start on Kazuma racing they said to take the black and white wire on the cdi out from it's clip. I have a 6 wire cdi one wire was black and pink the other black and white so I just jumped the black and pink to the cdi left the other one not hooked up. And boy it stated right wow . So now I might have to get a new kill switch lol. Thanks for all the help to.