Jetmoto 200
 

Jetmoto 200 build

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extra

2001 yamaha r6 shock is a fail =l but it is adjustable rebound. I also got the miknui 30mm carburetor installed and bike won't start anymore =( it will crank a couple of times and then catch and die again. 110 main 30 slow. is there anyway i can raise the rear of my suspension or make it stiffer? seat height is about 31-32 inches. feel free to request anymore pictures.

One common misconception is that adjustment on the shock is for rebound,though it does affect the rebound slightly, pre load on the shock spring is for ride height adjustment. To get stiffer suspension you have to get a stiffer spring. How long is the stock shock?

http://www.scooterpartssale.com/inde...oducts_id=1868

http://www.atvpartsmax.com/index.php...roducts_id/403

this might work.

thank you so much for the links i will check them out.

I just wanted to confirm that the r6 shock does have preload and rebound adjustment the rebound adjustment is the ribbed ring on the left side of the shock.

i circled the part i was talking about.

the stock shock is 10.5 inches

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-2NIDcqv59I

i will be adjusting the carb today when i get home, and i found this great video to follow. should my idle air screw be all the way closed? my mixture screw located on the bottom of the carb should be at around 1.5 - 2.5 turns right?

you need a 270mm shock. I would call the guys at the first link and ask about the part in the link.

I'm gonna enjoy this build; those Jetmoto bikes have the best exhaust layout, and decent snail adjusters. What are your plans? Are you sticking with the stock rims, or moving to 21/18? Are you changing to aluminum?

There are only two adjustment screws on the 30mm Mikuni; the idle screw (on the right side, from rider's perspective) and the pilot mixture screw, which is controlling fuel, not air. The pilot mixture screw is underneath the carb, in front of the float bowl.

To be clear, the pilot mixture screw is responsible for the transition from idle to main, and if it is backed out too far, you'll get too much fuel at idle, which might be your problem. Looking at it from another angle, if you need to back the screw out more than two turns, you need a bigger slow jet. Since you already have a 30 slow jet, try gently seating the screw to see if it will start. From there, back the screw out 1/4 turn at a time, until there is no bog when you quickly open the throttle.

I hope that helps.

so should i start with both the idle screw and the mixture screw in all the way then back the screw up as i go?

i would love to move up to 21/18. i don't really know what u meant by aluminum though. i know the front will clear the 21 but im not sure if the rear will clear 18. will post pictures of chain and sprockets when i have the chance. I'm also looking into handle bar risers because they sit way to low for me. (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tusk-Handleb...2d95f1&vxp=mtr)

any information about modding this bike will be taken into consideration.

Pilot mixture screw all the way in, but not the idle screw. If you turn the idle screw all the way in, it will idle way too high. Once it's running, set the idle as low as you can. The lower the idle, the less chance of overheating while riding in the woods.

I meant aluminum rims. Moving from a 16" to an 18" rear wheel only moves the tire one inch closer to the front of the swingarm. If you have a clear two inches in front of the tire right now, you'll likely be fine.

Rather than handlebar risers on my TW200, I installed aluminum ATV bars. Much better riding position for me, and less vibration.