TT250: First valve clearance check report
 

First valve clearance check report (502 miles). Overall the job is pretty straightforward. I pulled the tank and everything off the first time to get the most work space available. A few notes for others:

1.) To get the CSC cover off that covers the bolt that lets you turn the crank, make DAMN sure you have the right size large screwdriver. Those screws are so tight from the factory. I ended up having to use a large screwdriver and a wrench. I pushed the screwdriver in as even as possible (force towards the bike), then used a wrench to gently turn the shaft of the screwdriver. That did it cleanly with no damage to the screws. Don't skimp on the right screwdriver.

2.) Getting the valve cover off took some time, as it was stuck on there pretty good. I ended up using a piece of plastic blocking I had on the left side (clutch lever side) of the valve cover, getting it under the "lip" and gently tapping that plastic with a small hammer to get it free. Once it popped off everything looked good, gasket was fine.

3.) The manual doesn't say anything about which way to rotate the bolt on the crank to spin the motor (after you remove the spark plug). You turn the wrench counter-clockwise to spin the motor to the right spot.

4.) Rotate the crank a few times and watch how the rocker arms move, and then rotate it to the T mark a few times to get a feel. Rotate the crank SLOWLY when you see the first mark (the double line). The double line, F, then T are all very close together. Also, my valves were really tight at 502 miles, so there was essentially no rocker arm movement at top dead center, making TDC a little tougher to find.

EDIT: Joey at CSC gave me the best tip for finding TDC. As you rotate the crank, watch the exhaust valve (the one towards the front of the bike) open (you see the rocker arm push down) then close, then watch for the intake valve (the one closest to the carb) to open and close. As soon as you see the intake valve close, SLOWLY rotate the crank until you get to the T mark. That is TDC. Without this tip it's much harder to figure this out.

5.) Get yourself a tool to turn the square adjuster:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/223294839859
Getting the gap dialed into .07mm, holding that steady, AND tightening the lock nut with a 10mm wrench can be a pain. Ideally, I would probably do this again with a friend. One to turn the square adjust and get the gap set, another to tighten the lock nut. It's fiddly if you are by yourself. Tightening the lock nut often snugs up the valve clearance a little too much.

I know that sounds like a lot, but it really was pretty straightforward, and the CSC guide for the job is good. Finding a .07 mm feeler gauge was impossible, so I used a .06 as a "go", and a .08mm as a "no go". I think I got it damn close to .07mm.

After adjusting the clearance on my bike, it starts up SO much faster now. One tap of the starter from cold it and instantly started. If your bike is tough to start, you may want to adjust your valves a bit earlier than 500 miles.

Happy wrenching!

Nice write up. :tup: As far as the valve adjustment tool. The set NZ sells works great for a one man operation. https://www.ebay.com/itm/303067563984

Man, I wish I had that kit this morning. Ordered.

Thanks!

Thanks schleppy! Great write up. I am saving this post!

Happy to help!

I just ordered one of those myself and the tool for adjusting the air/fuel mix on the carb

did you check the valve clearance before hand, curious on what it was at.
My bike now has 100 miles on it, starts great.

The smallest feeler gauge I had was .04 and that wouldn't fit in.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F303067563984

This set will cover all you need for this task etc
Feeler gauges are small and mm tool for lock but is easy to use

I adjusted mine at 500 and continued scheduled checks. They haven't moved in 4k miles.

As regards that cover, I never did get my screws to budge. I just put the bike in 5th and used the rear wheel to turn the engine.

Get a massive screwdriver with the hexagonal shaft that an open ended wrench fits on. Apply all your pressure inward towards the head of the screw, use the wrench to turn the shaft of the screwdriver up by the head. It broke mine free with zero slip, immediately.

get a hammer impact driver, put the right bit in it. these are priced cheap to expensive.
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2905-8...85539586&psc=1