09 qlink xp 200 clutch problem i think
 

coming home i was down shifting and a high pitch noise came from engine and it died . I restarted the bike noise still there left out clutch and it died i did get it started and limped home. even in neutral it it go seems to be in gear or at least a heavy drag when engine is running i can go through the gear no grinding but let out the clutch in neutral and there is rubbing noise it slips bad in 5th when just trying to start from stand still and there is alot of play in clutch handle. I hope some one can point me in the right direction to get my bike back up and running bike has 31000 km on it

With that mileage, the fraction plate maybe worn OR other parts ... Ref to http://chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=14564 for how to open the case ...

i use 10 w 40 motorcycle oil when i start out in first gear and leave off the gas is slows down fast feels like the breaks are on even if you push it backward its like break are on hard. as soon as you put it in neutral it frees up

Adjust the cable may solves it .Otherwise, u need investigate what's F***ed inside the case .Situation varies in each bike ...Up-shift w/o clutch (very easy to learn) saves it from early wearing.

Would the clutch make first gear feel like the breaks are on .and I can go through the gears at a stand still with the clutch on ...I really dont have the ways and means to rip that engine down

I mean I could probably handle the clutch but to split cases I just don't have a place to do it. That why im asking if the stuff im describing could just be a clutch. And are qlink clutch assembly compatible.with other companies

I did adjust the clutch cable and it didn't help. Starting out in first gear and when you leave off the gas and it feels like the breaks are on, if you lift the back wheel and hit the gas in first gear spins normally and when you leave off the gas it stops abruptly

Does the wheel spin freely in the air with clutch engaged or in neutral? Stuck/dragging brakes are very common.



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Wheel spins freely in neutral spins in first grear till you pull in the clutch than it stops like you slammed on the breaks

So just to understand what is happening here, the wheel spins freely when in neutral but if you change gears to first while pulling in the clutch the wheel stops and has resistance?

Yes in first gear the wheel.spins you rev the engine wheel spins fine if you put the clutch in it stops fast and has a lot of resistance

I dont think that is internal. If the clutch wasn't adjusted correctly the wheel would keep spinning when you pull in the clutch in 1st gear. As Adjuster said, this sounds more like rubbing brakes...

The only thing is as soon as you.put it in neutral it frees up I will check.breaks.
I.tried with engine off and.same thing.heavy resistance in gear but fine in neutral

Something is very unusual with your problem. If you fully engage the clutch the wheel should spin freely no resistance and no matter what gear. What happens to the wheel spin if you have it in neutral and engage the clutch? I am very interested to hear what turns up to be causing this problem.



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I am going to guess after reading over your thread something has had a catastrophic failure. Either your clutch or gearing has completely failed. Does the engine run and idle fine in neutral?



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I am beginning to think the same thing. If it were me I would remove the engine from the bike and spend a day or two carefully tearing it apart and checking out whats going on in there. Once you get in there you will most likely see the culprit immediately.

I don't know if you have to remove the engine but start with the clutch and look for the broken part then move on to the gearbox. Like Thinker said it will probably be pretty obvious when you find it.


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Even with engine off in any gear there is residence but not in neutral and.slips in.fifth. I never had trouble with the.clutch prior to.this.it all start with a high pitched noise and the engine stalling

Can a clutch just go out all of sudden I.guess is what I should have asked in the first place and what are.the signs or normal things that can happen

Engine runs good

Going out all the sudden is what tells me something has actually failed/broken as opposed to worn out.


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I will start with clutch go.from there .I got.4 years out of a
$ 1200 dollar bike mite have to up grade ..it sucks I just put new tires on it

I paid $1,900 for mine after catchup registrations etc and have gotten 7 months out of it >:( however my situation is not as bad as yours appears to be. You can check out my thread here: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=14564

How I see it is I got a new Suzuki supermoto (engine is made in suzuki factory) for under $2k and knew something was going to give out, however TaoBao makes replacements ridiculously cheap. My plan is to fix my XF200 then ride the shit out of it till I save enough to get a WR250R, DRZ400, or RX-3. Then I will sell the XF200 for whatever is appropriate and put that into extras for the new bike.

I say just open up your engine, see what needs replacing, replace it, then A) ride the bike again, or B) sell it and put the money towards another bike.

Thanks for your input will keep you.posted

The good news is that you do not have to split the case to inspect / service the clutch. Just remove the clutch cover, and take many pics.

I had a friend over to hear the bike and he also thinks it the clutch ... amazon has dr 200 clutches for sale could anyone tell me if the dr 200 clutch fits a qlink xp200. it has the five spring setup like both the dr and xp

The link?
U can't find the EXACT problem w/o open the case...
Find the ??? 1st
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btw
Early batch's starter clutch (secretly recall & improved) are famous for fails...
A Brit had this http://www.mychinamoto.com/forums/showthread.php?7142 problem after replacing it (cause: no HIGH tensile thread locker...)

bought a clutch from ebay every thing seem to match but they had 5 steel plates instead of 6 so i used 1 old one and now the clutch wont work at all , it still goes through the gears with engine off, and starts and sounds ok but if you try to start the engine in gear with clutch on it did not work and clutch is real tight. this sucks its the best time to ride and im stuck driving my car

when i had everything apart it looked OK the push rod bearing plate washer all looked good i measured a few clutch plates and they were acceptable according to the manual. but the manual also shows 5 clutch and 4 steel plates I took out 6 and 6 out , I cant figure out why its not doing anything but make a little noise when engaging the clutch not as much as the old but a little, guess i will take it apart and put old stuff back in and see what happens

eureka. I looked at the Suzuki diagrammed and they had the clutch plate first i thought i put them in the way i took them out I guess I was wrong now i need a clutch cale and 2 throttle cables and im set

it seems that i lost second gear. it grinds like hell if i give it gas or down shift. even pushing back and forth with engine off . i guess i will have to skip 2nd

have been riding without 2nd and 5rd gear for awhile,i tightened my chain cause it was really loose and i started getting really bad grinding , after checking i found the chain was hitting engine guard. so i know the chain is bad.but i started the engine and still have grinding. after take side cover off i found the whole clutch basket had a 1/2 inch movement in all directions, the washer still bent over to keep nut from loosening. what is the next thing to do without opening the cases or trashing the bike.

I would remove the clutch assembly to have a look at the splines on the clutch basket. They are usually aluminum and ride on the hardened steel input shaft. They eventually wear out and the clutch becomes loose. A complete clutch assembly runs about $40 on Ebay.

BTW, the clutch basket splines were starting to wear on my Lifan 200 engine so I replaced the clutch. Easy job.

I took the clutch basket off and it looks like the shaft it self has a lot of play in it ...it should not have a lot of play in it right ??????

Correct. The transmission input shaft should not have a lot of play. The shaft is supported by ball bearings on both ends and the only way to change them out is to split the crankcase.

what would cause the clutch and transmission to act up by just tightening the chain

May have nothing to do with tightening the chain but there is a chance it's related. If the chain is overly tight it puts a lot of stress on the countershaft and bearings which could cause problems with other transmission parts.

So the dr200 clutch works in the xf200?? I've been searching for this answer for weeks haha

Hey there. Apologies for the delay. I've heard the 125 clutch will do the trick but my Q Link clutch has yet to need replacing so it's a guess. Wish I could be of more assistance.
I'll do some searching and see what I can come up with.

I got it, the dr200 clutch is a perfect fit!