This bike is nice - advice before first ride?
 

So I finally pulled the trigger and bought a new RX3 - it was delivered today.

I got it out of the crate and put on the windshield, top box, and mirrors and I have to say, I am impressed with the quality, fit, and finish of this bike. I had read plenty of others say how good it was, so my expectations were high, but honestly, this has really impressed me - despite having high expectations already.

Unfortunately, I can't ride it yet - hoping to get it registered tomorrow morning and then get it out on the road.

I've checked the oil, tire pressure, lights, signals, and hand checked the bolts I can easily reach. Anything else I need to do or check before I take it out on a test run? I have read about the need to immediately change the oil on other Chinese bikes, but am under the impression that CSC has already taken care of this for me (am I wrong?). Did I miss anything else here?

I'm looking forward to my first ride on this bike!

If you're hanging about waiting to ride it I'd suggest not just checking the fasteners but putting loctite on them. Most of us had fasteners rattling loose fairly quickly. You might want to also set the sag and rebound front and rear so the suspension is setup as good as it can be. Adjust the controls to the angle that's comfortable for your riding style. Set the mirrors. Some of this can be found on the CSC site: https://www.cscmotorcycles.com/we-ma...ance-tutorials

BigDuke, you do not need to change the oil right off the bat. Zongshen actually uses a high quality oil during assembly. I cannot remember the brand (maybe Mobil) but this was noted by Joe when he toured their factory. I'd caution you about the brakes. When I first got my bike on the road it seemed like the rear was prone to lock up and the front was like a block of wood. Over time either the brakes have improved or I have gotten used to them...I believe the former. Take a look at the CSC recommendations for the first service and just stick with that. I did really early oil changes but now think I wasted time and money because the oil analysis never showed excessive break-in wear.

I just checked all the adjustments. the cables, chain tention and alignment, etc....and rode.
I've had no fasteners come loose on either RX3....but we don't put our bikes through anywhere near what Joe does! ;-)

Thanks guys. I got my plates this morning and took her out for a spin. The first ride was great. This bike is extremely easy to ride.

Of interest: When I tried to fire the bike up for the first time, it was in 1st and I had the clutch all the way in - however, when I hit the starter motor, the bike lurched forward. :wtf: Not cool. I put it in neutral and the bike fired right up with no issue. i was a little concerned about trying to put it into 1st with the motor on after that experience, but it worked fine - the clutch seems to be working. I have turned the bike on and off several times and have not been able to replicate the problem.

While riding, the bike seems to not like going into 3rd, but I imagine this will smooth out over time.

Despite the above, I am really impressed with the bike and how it rides. Now I just have to get through the first 500 miles so I can run it up over 5k!:ohno:

My bike and most others I know do the same.
I found it very hard to start it while in gear.

I've never had a bike with a wet clutch that fully disengaged no matter how adjusted. After the bike sits overnight you can expect the clutch to stick, even after 10000 miles. To start, go to neutral. Simple as that. When you pull in the clutch to go to first wait about 3 seconds before going into gear and this will reduce the lurch to practically nothing. Once the clutch is wet it should easily start in gear, but not a cold start.


EDIT: Definitely Loctite everything. Most singles are this way, the bigger the engine the worse they are.


Also, you are correct, the RX3 has a lovely ride.

Glad you're liking your new RX3! I know I'm still loving mine, and I got it on the first shipment! I've not had much trouble with loosening bolts on mine, I think I've had maybe a couple loosen up, I just got the big bore kit install a couple weeks ago, and I'm liking it better and better with each ride :)
Where are you located?
Are you on the owners map (posted somewhere in this forum) ?

I read a few reviews on the Kawasaki Z900RS last week. Exactly what I wanted, I thought. Transferred funds to checking, arranged to pay with my debit card, head to Kawasaki in Dyersburg via rural routes. Got there, took a look at the Z, bought a visor to update my homemade windscreen, rode Roxy the rural roads home, right past an almost spotless 2003 Electra Glide repo and didn't even look. 'Nuff said?

Loctite everything. Enjoy your little Chinese honey.

On another forum, it was stated that the oil the TT 250 and RX3 originally come with is, "break in" oil and shouldn't be changed earlier than recommended. I doubt this... Bottom line, I'm impressed with CSC and their bikes. I think we can trust following their recommendations for maintenance intervals.

I'm on the verge of putting my 04 Sportster up for sale /trade to get an RX3 , at 61 years of age the weight of the HD is beginning to become an issue ,especially when coupled with the sand and dirt road i live on , a sportster just is not compatible with it and an RX3 style would be much lighter and safer on that surface .,that's how much i like the RX3 .

Basically, run regular oil for the first 1000 miles then switch to synthetic afterwards. You'll find that finding neutral gets easier with synthetic.

I have recently moved to Eastern Montana. It's quite a change from New Jersey but I'm liking it here. I'll have to look for that map and put a pin in it.

I get my oil info from a chemical engineer who spent 40 years working for a major oil supplier known for their high quality. He analyzed competitors' oils to see what they were up to. Let me sum up his advice:

1: Break in oil--use any brand name dyno oil of the appropriate weight with a motorcycle or wheeler on the label;
2: Cheap "synthetics" aren't synthetic, just extra highly filtered dyno oil, such as Rotella, which is a very high quality dyno oil, better than cheap dyno oils, not as good as real synthetics, and some varieties will lunch your motorcycle engine or clutch--14 different types of Rotella, which one is right 40 your bike?????;
3: Real synthetic oils are specialty products that cost more than Rotella. Again look for the motorcycle or wheeler on the label, than check it meets builders recommendations.

Thanks for the insight - I have used AMSOIL in my previous bikes after break-in and was always happy it. I know this subject can be a touchy one - everyone seems to have a strong opinion on it.