Hey MegaDan, I've searched all over for capacity of front fork oil and want
to see if that is still fresh on your mind.
I've already put 200 miles on my Hawk 250 but I'm going to pull front end apart to service forks this week. Also I'm going to install the Hawk cluster as the oem speedo is a joke. Thanks for your advice.

I started with the specified amount of 210ml in each fork, for fork oil. A lot of people like to say "put back in what comes out" but you will find that each fork most likely has a different amount of oil in them. My left fork had almost twice as much as the right.

Make sure to pump the forks through their full range of motion a few times, and if you want to ensure you get as much out as possible, leave them upside down at a slight angle for a few minutes.

If you want to take the extra steps like I did, then I also flushed the forks with parts store brand ATF by filling them, cycling the forks right side up a few times, and then repeating the draining process. I did this for two reasons. First, to get as much of the factory oil out of the forks as possible. Two, my forks had a bunch of contaminants/debris in them.

Once I was satisfied that I got as much of the oil out as I could, I filled them with said 210ml, and then used a small tape measure to check the air gap. I had to add just a tiny bit more to one fork to get them even. If you are unfamiliar with this, you essentially add your oil, cycle the tube to ensure all of the air is out of the system, then with the tube all the way compressed, measure the distance between the top of the oil, and the top of the fork tube.

Once you have a figure, write it down somewhere for future use. I change my fork oil annually on my bikes, and without disassembling the forks you will never get all of the old oil out, so the levels will always be slightly off. Using the measuring method, you are ensuring that you get the same level of oil in the forks each time.

Are your kickstand Phillips-head screws rounded off like mine? (Looks like a gorilla installed those screws w/ an automatic screw gun?) I was thinking to pull the kickstand and "re-wire" the circuit... so I can have the engine idle while kickstand down. The switch comes from the factory with a circuit break which kills the engine when kickstand down.

No kickstand switch on my Hawk.

Got the MCO and bill of sale in the mail today. Woohoo. Have to wait a week or so to register her, but at least I have the paperwork.

I ran into an issue with my idle mixture thumb screw today as well and had to put the original one back in. Word of warning, make sure the little tip on the end is spaced properly. I was wondering why I was having such a problem with getting my idle to behave. Turns out I goofed up and ended up breaking the tip off. Not too bummed since it was so cheap, but it means I get to fiddle with it the old fashioned way.

In a related note, back to 1 1/2 turns out on the mixture screw and she runs ok. Time to start all over again...

I also changed to clear fuel line and added a small fuel filter from the parts store. Fuel hose is 3/16 so that it fits on the petcock and carb while reusing the stock spring clips in those locations. Filter has 1/4 inch hose ends so the line had to be persuaded on. No clips on it but it doesnt leak. I do plan on putting on a couple of clamps or clips here soon though for peace of mind.

Up to 76 miles now. Trying to work in riding when I can, but until it is registered I have to be cautious about when and where I ride.

Oh, and last thought of the day. My heavy butt got to 60mph on it. So it is possible with a fresh bike, tuned carb, and 17/45 gearing, but I had to push to get there. Not going to do that again for a while. As much as I am a proponent of a hard break in, even I wont push too hard too often.

Ah! The Hawk does not come with a kickstand switch... but the Magician does? WTH, I would have thought the wiring the same. Curious.

Mega... nice pic. The GF must have taken that pic too! (JK)

lol. I can take a good picture too from time to time, but this ain't one of them.

25 lbs loss is the quickest (and cheapest)way to 65mph:hehe:. My model is not set up for that power .

I put in that needle screw too and just f'ed it up cant, get past 45mph. Will put the original screw back in but wonder if I'm experiencing trash since I had a starting issue before thatthunbscrew install. Now it starts easy but bogs past 45mph.>:

What does that sticker say on f fender...if you crack your head it ain't our fault , no doubt.:hehe::hehe:

I could lose a good 40-50lbs for sure, but I'd still weigh 200-210lbs even at my lightest. Back in the days of young, I weighed 235lbs at 8% body fat and a lot more muscle. Back when I played football and did weight lifting... I miss those days lol.

It's kind of nice to know I am not the only person that screwed up thatthumbscrewthing. I will say this, my bike runs worlds better now with the original mixture screw back in. I almost wonder if the tip of the thumb screw has a different taper on it than the standard one on the Mikunis. Can't verify that with mine now since it's all messed up.

No idea what the stickers say, but I know that eventually I will dig out my heat gun to remove them. I am almost sure they say,"Danger, this is a motorcycle. Motorcycle Hot. May crash. Crash hurt bad"

105 miles now - Second oil change and checked and adjusted the valve clearances again, they were just SLIGHTLY out.

If you are wondering why I did an oil change so soon? Well, if you have ever done a hard break in, one key thing with the process is frequent oil changes, not just to flush as much metal particulate as possible, but also because new engines tend to have a bit more blowby until the rings seat, and this blowby saturates the oil with fuel. Fuel in oil makes the oil less lubricating.

At 105 miles, I could start to smell hints of fuel/hydrocarbon saturation in the oil on the dipstick. I was going to change it anyway, but it is just one of many reasons why.

That said, took it out for a quick little 5 mile run, and it's always amazing how good fresh oil feels.

In other news, bike has picked up a LOT more torque and power since day 1. I am going to do a compression test on my next day off and compare it to the numbers I had after the break in run.

On the carb side of things, as the motor breaks in more I have noticed that at light steady throttle at lower speeds I get a little hesitation with the engine hot. Plug chop during this condition revealed it is a little lean. I am going to pick up a 32.5 and 35 pilot jet and try those out. So far the 110 main with middle needle is spot on, but with a larger pilot I may need to move the needle down.

Those stickers peel off easily without a heat gun

I tried. They need just a tiny bit of heat. I may just park it in the sun for an hour lol. Black is a great cllor for it.

I WAS going to install the SL350 sprocket studs and my 43 tooth rear sprocket this weekend, and report back with my opinion on the studs and sprocket, but since the seller obviously can't count, because I ordered 2 sets of 2 for a total of four, and sent me just 2 studs...even though his ad on ebay states sold as a pair... I can't.

Lol...crash hurt bad. Offs happen:lol:

Update on the sprocket stud situation. Seller admitted they made a goof and sent me the other pair. Hopefully next weekend will be the 43 tooth swap with the new studs and the chain shortening. Should also have it titled next weekend as well, so I can legally ride it around to my hearts content.

Also, I got bored and whipped out my Go Pro to make a little video overview on my bike. Forgive the "duh" obvious things I state as I was somewhat aiming this at anybody considering buying a Hawk or maybe somebody that just ordered one more than the obvious crowd of regulars here. Also, forgive my horrible camera work lol. This was actually my first recording on my Go Pro hero 5, even though I have owned it for like 3 months.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fzodfQjsjaI