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http://www.cabletiesandmore.com/imag...illips-top.jpg If that doesn't work, can you loosen the metal bands on each side of the carburetor, and rotate the carburetor so the bottom faces you? If so, you can adjust the PMS, and then rotate the carburetor back into a vertical position. Just make sure to tighten the metal bands again after you finish. ;) |
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I keen to learn from them as I might need those skills when I go around peninsula Malaysia one day with my RS3. |
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I use:
A flexible screwdriver Its shaft is "wire" and can bend almost 90 degrees, so turn handle horizontal plane, but tip is vertical (or very close to it:). You can chang to whatever kind of bit you need also, on the driver end. Very handy. They make a flex bit for drills also, you can use if you have one already.
The idea Spud suggested works well also, ie loosen the bands on the manifold, rotate carb, then adjust screw, and rotate carb back to vertical before testing. IT MAY run very rich, if the bowl dumps fuel into intake tract for a minute or so (or be flooded/hard to start for a few minutes). There is a CHANCE the floats on both carbs are too high, and dumping fuel when starting out and or braking or tilting the bike from side to side at a stop. Try that (tilting the bike) and see if it stalls. Thats the way to find out re floats (one way w/o dissaasembly of carb). If its floats, I can explain setting them for you as well. (Spud may have this covered already in his thread...) |
FTEY. My RS3 has been behaving good today. There are a few thing that I have change during my riding.
1) gear shifting behavior. I shift to higher gear after about 1/2 second after engaging the clutch. When shifting to low gear, I will rev the engine before shifting. I just gave a short rev to around 4000 RPM. 2) when engaging to first gear from neutral at stop light. I rev before engaging first gear. 3) engaging neutral. Short revving the engine, it should be easier to get neutral. 4) starting the engine from cold or hot. Switch off all lights. Turn the accelerator around 5 to 10 mm from its initial position and wait for 2 to 3 seconds then start the engine. I manage to start on 2nd attempt. The free play of the accelerator does not count. These were what I have discovered so far. But I managed to reach home safely without having a dead engine in the middle of the road.:clap: |
It sounds like you're really getting to know your bike. :D
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I agree. :tup:
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Great remedy.. Worked except the shifting to N. Sometimes still cant get it. So i shift down from 2nd gear when i cant get it.
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FTEY and I went for adjustment today. The mechanic uses a short screw driver bit attaching to a socket of ratchet to adjust the PMS. The tuning of our carb is slightly rich. The spark plug is a bit dark. But the adjustment still doesn't solve our problem. We have to send our bike back for him to readjust the carb. Sounds like he will open up the carb and change the pin.
After the adjustment, we put the bike to test by riding over 200km. Although it's not at its best condition, but the ride seems smoother than before. Especially when we ride on a countryside. Slow speed with high gear seems to be very relaxing. As for the hard to get neutral problem, the mechanic told us that he will change the pin on the clutch. by doing that, shifting to neutral shoul be much easier. But we will have to leave our bike for a day. |
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