Adjusting valves today.
 

Well at close to 3,500 miles I figured I would give them valves a check. First owner did the first 500 mile check. All seemed good for my first time doing this. Intakes were good ...Exhaust was slightly tighter so I adjusted them slightly. I have them to the .006 -.008 spec. This is my first time doing this so I am putting it back together and test ride time. I didn't pull the gas tank just in bolted and lifted aside. Also I unbolted the abs and pushed it out of the way to gain access to the exhaust valve cover. Otherwise I follwed the instructions per CSC site.

Good for you! I've got it down to a three hour affair, but it started off taking me all frikkin' day. Figured out I could leave the right side plastic and radiator installed and still gain access to the exhaust valves from the left side. I still remove the tank, though. It's just one quick-release clip and I always have a little cap ready, so I spill less than a tablespoon of fuel. I tried the tank balancing act and it took more time and I was always afraid of denting or scratching it.

Charles.

I figure the more I learn to do on these bikes Now the better off Also replaced the coolant return hose from the bottle. Looked like it was ready to crack soon. Put 60 miles on almost felt like a bit more power. I don't know I didn't adjust them much. I get a random engine kill at idle once in a while not sure why. Other then that runs great. Time to put more miles on and try to find some gravel roads

That valve spec should be .003" if you used a standard set of feeler gauges, .06-.08 mm is the metric equivalent and you appear to have conflated the two. If you really did adjust them to .006" it won't destroy the engine or anything, but the valves are going to be noisy as hell and you will probably have to do it over.

Thank you for that catch. I'm feel bad for missing that. I'm going to go back in and check them again. Even though I only moved the exhaust slightly. They must be too loose. I went back and read some older threads on this and found some more tips.

How long did take you? and why are you doing it?
I have a problem with my engine stalling in idle at traffic lights... could it be the valves?
Regards from UK ;-)

I had the bike apart for about 4-5 hours to check valves. That was because I took my time taking the plastics on and off. I just figured I would check them for piece of mind. I too have an occasional stall at stops. I did order a better feeler gauge online last night and I am going to correctly set them again this week. I will report how it effects my occasional stall. Should be able to do it next time in couple of hours.

Please.
I heard it could be a badly mapped ECU too...

Adjusted my valve clearances a couple of days ago, found that the e-xpect was stalling when cold. There is a lot of spring tension on the system so when you try to slowly crank the engine with the kick start pedal with the plug removed it is difficult to find the T mark on the flywheel. With the back wheel off the ground and the engine in fourth gear moving the back wheel slowly in a forward direction makes the job a piece of cake, Set the clearances both to 0.06mm and all is well with no more stalling. When I removed the left side plastic tank faring I found that the attachment points holding the two parts together were all broken so I managed to fit them all together with 10 minute epoxy and I guess that faring was damaged when it was installed at the factory. I would also add that with the 17 drive sprocket so far I get 55 MPH at about 6600 RPM and 60 MPH at about 7200 RPM. I have not yet opened the throttle as I have only about 240 miles on the clock.

Stock front sprocket is 14 not 17.

Plastics are available cheaply if the bike is not under warranty anymore.

Charles.

Actually the Lifan X-pect comes with a 15 drive sprocket which I have changed to a 17, I can guess what problems I would have trying to get the fairing replaced under warranty or the hassle of trying to get a replacement so the epoxy works just fine.

Stuff to Check
 

You could have exhaust valves that need adjustment, but that isn't the only thing that can cause stalling. Some things to check:

1.) Make sure that spark plug boot is fully seated on the spark plug.

2.) Try changing the spark plug to a Denso or NGK Iridium plug. The RX3 takes a NGK CR8E plug as standard, you can upgrade to a NGK CR8EK or CR9EK, where the 'K' denotes a double versus a single ground electrode plug; the Iridium variants are CR8EIX and CR9EIX, both of these are single ground electrode plugs with Iridium center electrodes.

3.) Put some Lucas Fuel Injection Cleaner and Upper Cylinder Lubricant in your gas tank, or something equivalent if it isn't available in your area.

These are just the top three, you can check out CSC's blog about RX3 stalling here for some more things to check:

http://californiascooterco.com/blog/?p=24180

As ZS mentioned, the NGK spark plug can make a big difference in these thumper engines. My OEM plug was the cause of stalling on my RX4.

Okay... so? This is a thread about the RX3, which is made by Zongshen not Lifan.

Charles.

Replaced spark plug with CR8EIX Done
Redx fuel injection cleaner always used.
I will check the valves today as the weather in UK it's finally friendly enough :-)
Let you know if I get around it
Thank you all :-)